Petalia
by MKG
Summary: Congrats! You have gotten your first hetalia pet! Here is a handy guide to "petalias". From breeds to breeding, training to vices. Pivotal events and life cycles. Every petalia owner should have this guide. mating, abuse etc. warning this is sick.
1. Introduction

_**NOTE**_- _This is a completely updated version of the guide. It will include most every country made into a pet form. It in **NO WAY** is intended to reflect the country or people. This is purely a crackish creation. More breeds will be uploaded along with a sick guide of their maintenance, training, etc. Some major things have changed. A special danke to KayosHybrid for helping me develop some of these breeds. Be warned once this can get crackish if you read the original version. Some improvements:_

-Each breed will have its own chapter for easy access

-Longer descriptions

-Face lifting the care, how too, breeding, etc

-Now available with tail and ears

-The animal is older

-More clear training

-Better organization

-Ability to be modified is greater.

-Alphabetical Order

- Breeds now named their country instead of human name

-**Updates:**

**-NEW: **Altered how petalia came to be. Instead of them being "pre-existing" they are now a creation of man. Yes, back to the original explanation for 'Petalia'. This change was made in order to be bettered suited fro a new fic which has a Petalia in it.

- Scale indicating grooming requirements, training difficulty, power, size, how good with children/family, Health, and female birth rate ratio in female/male format [ie- 1/40 = 1 female to 40 males, 20/1 = 20 females to 1 male.]

- New "Rare" and "Developing" breeds. These are countries which are popular minor characters or ones someone requested in a review.

-Finished Major breeds. Only minor changes from here on out to breed profiles

-More updates to come with training your pet, care, breeding, etc!

_And as always if you enjoy it, please review it! Also, I'd be happy to know which breeds you'd take up or what you would do with a petalia.  
_

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Introduction and History:

Petalia are a humanoid pet which developed separately from humans. It was first found in only a few places of the same breed and type. The Asian Petalia, African Petalia, European Petalia and the offshoot of the European Petalia, the Slavic which gained genes from a variety of its own original blood plus European and Asian. The animal was recently developed and is a man made creation. Some are referred to as "Ancient" which merely means they were the first to develop, both publically or secretly.

But what makes a Petalia different form a human? The brain is the key to this unique pet. Although very human like, the patterns of thought were modified to create certain personalities and character traits. When the pet first came out, there was much controversy over the rights of the animals. Where they truly animals or human? Debate still goes on. Laws regarding their protection, rights, and treatment are still under "construction" and many modern countries have little laws regarding them.

As breeding of these animals increased, most countries decided to fund several "studs". Some countries funded a stud for each state. Countries which did not have states often funded one large national stud. Stud farms were give requirements for what the government or citizens deemed in demand. The original types of Petalia were mixed, purified, or selected to create the breed. Currently there is almost one breed per nation.

As the breeds became distinct some were drafted for military use and fought in wars. While others developed sports around the Petalia. More and more the Petalia became a very in demand pet. With the boom of population also came many homeless Petalia and there was a "Great Petalia Culling" which happened about ten years after Petalia first became popular. So many "fad" owners had acquired such vast numbers that they could not handle them all. Most were abandoned or dropped in shelters which drained state and government funding. Abandoned Petalia posed a threat to humans and were hunted down. This incident prompted many laws to be made regarding Petalia.

Human traited Petalia are more prone to abandonment and are rare as they seem to carry more health problems. Almost all Petalia now have tail and ear genes. The ear genes look, work, and feel like cat or dog ears were created to improve hearing and pinpoint the location of sound. The tail which helps display emotion and balance on fours takes on a more dog like shape. Tails have fur, not hair and almost always are "sword" shaped or spitz type. The breed standards had to be altered because of these genes as coloration of tails and ears can differ from fur and hair color.

In present day, Petalia have two types of body hair. Hair on the head which is like human hair, then fur which is soft, silky hair found on the body, groin and tail/ears. Some breeders try to reduce fur so the animals will not bother those with allergies as much. Others have increased female Petalia births, as Petalia rarely birth females it is vital to have enough to make the next generation.

The number of original Petalia when they became suitable for pets was only a few thousand. Now they number in the millions with many options to choose from. The perfect pet can be found.


	2. America

American:

The American Petalia is often not considered a breed of its own but rather a mutt which was made from many European Petalia. The American was developed from many European studs which were bought and imported. Random breeding created them and the breed has a wider variation in conformation, height, weight, coloring and personality. Most notable is the heavy influence of English, German, Italian, French and Polish breeding. As a result, most members of the breed are blonde or light brown with light eyes. They can vary in height so most any size is permitted.

The American was breed for temperament and versatility. Mostly, one could say, a family pet. German blood was added for size and strength, as well as loyalty. The English added in agility. Italian males breed in speed, while French blood gave refinement. Some Polish blood was added to help with colder weather. The breed is good in almost all events of sport but is generally considered too heavy for racing. Trekking, shutzhund, jumping, agility, hunting, cross country and long distance sledding are some of the various sports they excel in.

The feeding requirements of the breed are low but it is often a heavy eater. They will quickly become fat so an owner must monitor them close. The breed is noted for eye problems, heart and lung diseases and cancer. The breed lives a long life with proper care.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/20


	3. Ancient Rome

Ancient Rome:

This breed is one of the three "Italian" breeds. Although the Rome breed was made up of Middle Eastern and European blood, it was largely developed in Italy. It was the first true "Italian" breed but went extinct. The breed is now trying to be re-created. The Rome created two of Italy's other breeds, the Southern Italian and Northern Italian. Both of which called for a lighter type of animal. It is one of the original foundation Petalia breeds.

The Rome is considered a draft breed. Its heavy muscling and thick bones made it a strong worker. It's flesh was darker and could survive in both cold and very hot climates. The breed however, though strong, have a loving personality and high sex drive. They bred easily which meant a population boom, but consumed too much food to be economical. The Rome has a shorter lifespan but very little medical problems. The breed standard calls for dark hair and vivid golden or yellow eyes. It is one of the few breeds with facial "scruff". Most Rome Petalia are in zoos as when they are unaltered, become so sexual for average owners. It is now protected by the government and to own one, a special permit must be given.

The Rome is a great hunter and a fine jumper. Drafting is a specialty and they can pull great loads. The breed is only for experienced owners as they love to be in charge. Males will often fight gruesome battles for breeding rights to a female. The breed was noted to not prefer any particular gender when mating which can prove problematic when trying to socialize it with others.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/30


	4. Austria

The Austrian:

The Austrian breed came from mixing of previous European breeds with a large German influence. Some Italian breed has entered the blood which has made it lighter than the German breed and introduced the dark hair gene. While the breed is a medium frame the brown hair must always have light eyes which may range from gray to blue to violet depending on the bloodlines.

This breed was developed to withstand the cold and be a light draft type. They are known to be quiet and more "one person" Petalia, not wanting to be overwhelmed by many. They are good with younger kids but often prefer to entertain themselves than watch children. The Austrian is a good jumper, hunter, tracker, swimmer, and guard Petalia. Most of the breed in Austria still are used as labor on farms. Very non-violent, the attempts to make them into shutzhunds or military animals failed. They are known to be pickier eaters. As a whole they are a healthy long living breed with little inherited illness but poor vision is known in the breed. They are known to breed well and are a favorite among the regional farmers for larger litter sizes and willingness to breed.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/30


	5. Belarus

The Belarus:

This is one of the few breeds to have a very high female birth ratio. It is female gender dominant and males are harder to find. It was developed from the Russian breeding program but mixed with many other European bloodlines and purified. The high amount of female births has made it possible to fund the breeding program and many are exported for breeding.

While the standard has variations they are only slight. The breed is a medium to light frame. Longer hair than most other breeds which may be any shade of blonde. The eyes must be light and only blue or violet is permitted. The color of the eyes is generally an indicator of how strong either the Russian or European bloodlines are in the individual. The violet eyes are considered the most prized as in the species they are difficult to acquire outside the Russian breed. In addition to their aggression they are very lustful and often have a lot of pups. They can be very protective and young. The breed is successful in military and in combat. Brave and fierce but still able to do most agricultural work, it has become vastly popular with farmers.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

50/1


	6. Belgium

The Belgium:

This is another breed of high ratio female births. It was largely developed from French blood with German influence. The limit of different bloods lead to a very quick registry formation and breed standard. All the breed members are a medium shade of blonde with green eyes. The breed is slightly heavier and often regarded as a light draft, although lacking true draft type from heavy French breeding.

The frame is average with long legs and is generally a bit shorter than other breeds. It is not particularly aggressive and prefers to live in peace although they are known for being rather vocal. High energy, they require active owners. The Belgium breeds well and is still often mixed with French blood. The breed is great with hunting, jumping, tracking, swimming, and other physical activities. The lack of aggression makes it less of a guard Petalia. Often friendly and warm, it's a hard Petalia to provoke and thus it is often a family Petalia. Unlike many countries Belgium did not include any military plans when funding its breed.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

60/1


	7. Bulgaria

The Bulgarian:

Little is known about this breed and it is still under much development. Many influences are being mixed into the bloodline but a standard is being aimed for. The set type is for a fair skin but dark black hair. The eyes keeping an amber or yellow, similar to the Italian breeds. It is a medium frame and although originally desired to be a military Petalia, the recent trends have made the program shift towards a "sport" type that could be a pet.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/30


	8. Canada

The Canadian:

This breed is largely mistaken to be from the American strain but it is completely different. The breed came from French males and some minor English influences. As a result there is not too much genetic variation among the breed and it has been purified for a long time. It is considered a sport type and was made to be a pet with little to no military purpose.

It's frame is average with a slightly thicker skin. It is very cold tolerant with longer hair to protect the neck. The hair is always blonde or orange with either purple or blue eyes. They have a high endurance and agility but are just as content being active as being laid up on a bed. Incredibly gentle and loving they have little to no aggression. They are the perfect Petalia for the first time owner and very forgiving of mistakes. At the same time they are talented and can do most any event. They tend to be a little shorter than their foundation sires but only due to need. They require little food and very few have inherited illness.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/30


	9. China

The China:

This breed is very true to the original type developed from the Asian Petalia. This is one of the smallest Petalia and purest. It was refined from the first born Asian breed with no outside blood added. The purity of the breed means that all of the members can be traced back to their single ancestor. The lack of outside influence however means very little uniqueness in coloring with only 2 colors permitted and 2 fur alterations.

The breed has a small but very strong frame. Black or dark brown hair is standard with either black or brown fur. The fur may be normal or agouti. Agouti gene is not desired but only from a trend stand point. The registry considers it a valid gene and about forty percent of China Breed express it. The eyes must be a genotype of brown but can be light brown or amber in appearance. The breed is known to be very intelligent and jovial. Its endurance and agility make it a tough competitor. Although not a mainstream racer, China is known to race the breed in its own country. They are excellent in almost any sport and gentle enough to be trusted with children. The breed well and require little food. The extreme efficiency of their bodies make them ideal for first time owners who wish to compete. Although they enjoy their herd, they are known to want their own space, so care must be taken that each Petalia has his or her own nest.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/35


	10. Cuba

The Cuba:

The Cuba is a rare type mostly devolved for military and work use. The blood was mixed with some European and African lines to create an animal resistant to heat, large frame, heavier muscling, and uniform health. The Cuba is forbidden to be exported to any country currently.

The breed has darker skin with brown hair and eyes. It is among the healthiest of breeds and is extremely disease resistant. They are slightly shorter than most breeds. Because of the restrictions little is known about the breed. It is often cheerful but described as extremely easy to train. Its willing work ethic makes it a perfect partner for farmers and the military. They have a strong jaw that is perhaps the strongest outside of Europe and Russia. It was thought that The Russia breed influenced it somewhat, but no Russian lines can be traced.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/30


	11. Denmark

The Denmark:

The Denmark is a newer breed crafted from European lines. The goal of the breed was to develop a good military Petalia but later on the program was closed, shifting it to a defense and labor animal. The Denmark is considered a Nordic breed as it shares blood with that group of Petalia, but has strong European influences.

The Denmark has little variation, light blonde hair and blue eyes. It was bread for height and is considerable taller than other Petalia. Its weight is also much heavier which is mostly muscle mass and bone. The size and conformation however work against the masters of the Petalia. The breed is often independent. Unlike other Petalia, they are solitary creature who only come together for breeding then leave. Males can be extremely powerful and are known to completely ignore commands. Their stubbornness makes them difficult to train. Despite this, they generally have a happy demeanor and enjoy play. Slightly lazy, they much prefer to keep warm and cozy than run through feet of snow for a master.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/35


	12. Egypt

The Egypt:

Rivaling the China, the Egypt breed is pure with no influences. The pure bloodlines are the original African lines which were refined into what is perhaps the best racing Petalia on the planet. Although largely a military animal, the Egypt excels in speed sports and has agility to which all other breeds are compared too. Many have become feral and are found in the wild from the middle east to south Africa.

The breed is one of the lightest in weight. A darker hide that is thin and sensitive wraps around lean but powerful muscle. The paws are cat like and silent. The hair is black and one of the shortest lengths of breeds. The fur must always be black but the flanks, underside, under the yes, and tips of fur often fade, regardless of sunlight exposure, to a gold. Because of the mix of influence in some lines, the standard brown eyes have become less popular than the coveted green eyes. Sometimes they mix to create the most desired of all, gold eyes. The spine has a slight arch with enables a longer stride. The tail is thin under its short silk fur and the ears are large, upright and thin. The Egyptian is extremely affectionate with family and breeds well. They are good at raising pups and boast a high intelligence. They can be stubborn in training, wanting much to do what they see fit. Besides racing, they can hunt, track, cross country, jump and most any other event. The breed is also famous for their stealth and have a unique "stalk" when hunting. Fearless as a hunter this breed has been known to take down dangerous prey to what it considers its family safe.

Recently, some evidence suggests that the breed was once worshipped as a God on earth. Because of the rarity, they were only found in temples and those of high class. There was no breeding of the animals, rather the Petalia were allowed to mate as they saw fit. Because it is a family oriented people it did not breed each year but focused on raising a single litter up before mating again. Pups were considered special gifts and omens could be told from them. Announcements were public and many may have come to receive the new mother and pups blessings. To kill an Egypt was the highest offense and most had human escorts with them at all times.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/30


	13. England

The England:

The England breed is immensely popular in the UK. Made from the original European lines, the breed was isolated in Britain and became pure. The breeds disposition was crafted to be useful for military and royal use. This breed however failed to get enough muscle mass, remaining relatively small and lean. The "failure" did turn out to its benefit as its use as a pet and competition animal turned out to be a great success.

The breed is very lean and smaller in comparison to other breeds. The must have blonde hair with green eyes, no other coloring is permitted. The eyebrows are thicker and must be darker than the hair on the head. The agouti gene may be present but it is very much preferred to not be an expressive gene. The lean muscle and super flexible skeleton make it an ideal hunter, jumper, and racer. It's flesh is light but thick to ward off cold. The England breed has a hard working and adventurous attitude but can be incredibly stubborn in what it wants. Often known for being a grumbler, it will make a grumble vocalization as it works against its will. In Britain, it is often used as a carriage animal or racing as well as sports. Many members of the breed also excel in swimming and many used on boats or along shorelines.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/25


	14. Estonia

The Estonia:

This breed was made from mixing European lines and Russian lines with a touch of Rome. The breed was originally meant for military use so Russian blood was added to it although later refinement made the addition miniscule. The disposition shows no marks of the previous breeds and is very unique.

The Estonia is tall and lean. A thick skin helps it bare the cold. The eye color can vary slightly from a dull brown to green. The hair is always blonde but fur may be blonde, brown or black. It may also be solid or express agouti genes. The breed as no specialty but generally does well in most events. They are highly trainable and intelligent although can often outwit their owners. It is not recommended as a first Petalia. The breed gets along well with others as well as on its own. It does however suffer from vision loss and is prone to loosing eye sight at young ages.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/30


	15. Finland

The Finland:

Often considered the ideal pet, the Finland has boomed in popularity. Made from mostly purified Nordic blood the Finland breed was one of the only Petalia to serve purely as a pet with no other purpose. Only the calmest, friendliest, and most trainable Petalia went into making the breed. Even the most high spirited of Finlands can be managed.

The breed is smaller than most but very easy to maintain. The hair must be blonde but the eyes can vary from violet, for those with Slavic influence in their foundation, or Browns which are believed to be the healthiest eyes. Unlike neighboring breeds, it is slightly darker hair and dark eyed. It helps lessen glare from snow and keep it unique among so many blonde breeds. Because it was made purely for pet purposes they are very easy to train, get along will all animals, and have virtually no aggression. Males can remain intact and never become unruly during mating seasons. This breed is trusted with children as a guardian and is an excellent sledded although it lack endurance to compete against other breeds.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/25


	16. France

The France:

The France Breed is made up of purified European lines. This breed gave a base for the Canadian and is currently being used to help develop some African lines. Its purpose in Military failed but soon the breeders switched to sports and in particular Jumping and Swimming.

The breed is strong and tall. Slightly longer hair with a little wave is the standard but it must always be blonde. The eyes are only permitted to be shades of blue. This breed must have darker fur than its head hair and often has black or brown fur with blonde patches in the groin. If ears or tails have been added, the tail is usually blonde while the ears can vary based on genes. It is one of the few breeds allowed facial hair which must be a darker shade than the head hair. The strong wide shoulders and paws make it a good worker on farms. The breed is known for a high sex drive though and males are usually altered to prevent accidental litters. It can be very confident and ignore its owner when it thinks it knows better. The breed is a "high stepper" and very swift on its feet. The showy gait is ideal for showing in carriage.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/20


	17. Germany

The Germany:

This breed was refined from European lines as many others. Strict culling practices however made it so that the Germany was a monumental success in the Petalia world. Often fetching the highest prices, Germany males are the second strongest Petalia in the world next to the Russian. The original purpose was military and worker although the breed was not formed and standardized until recently. Some parts of the bloodlines remain unknown. Some accuse the foundation breeders of Hybrid practices, that is mating humans and Petalia, to get the wide range of intelligence and human like behavior. Although a good breeder, it keeps its pups the longest, some into adulthood, and is very protective of offspring. They also have a strong desire to remain in a bonded pair. The death of a mate, pups, or when pup are sold can take a very heavy mental toll and result in depression if not handled properly.

The breed is tall and wide. It has the second biggest paws and a square powerful jaw with sharp teeth and long canines. The breed must only be blonde with blue eyes and a very fair flesh. The hair pattern is different for males than it is for females. Male's hair will grown in a backwards direction, keeping a neat combed appearance. Females will have a fringe. The muscles on the Germany make up a bulk of the weight and the breed doesn't keep fat on very well. The breed is a willing and determined worker who is known to be loyal and obey their masters to a fault. They breed very well and are excellent parents, but have less litters than most, preferring to raise their pups for a few years before having more. It is considered a draft breed and has a lumbering gate. They lack agility due to their size and are slower in pace. High energy and although trusted with human children need a lot of exercise. Some are now feral and live in Europe in herds high in the mountains. They are protective and highly territorial, so intruders on their master's land can be in serious trouble. Bred more for work than sport, the breed only does well in certain areas which include fighting, drafting, schutzhund, jumping, pulling and hunting.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/40


	18. Greek

The Greek:

Developed in Greece for military and labor it is the only Mediterranean draft breed left and is one of the oldest breeds. Bred from a mix of Middle East, African, and European bloods, this Petalia was made to be extremely hardy and adaptable. Although a draft breed, it is considered a light version, with good speed and agility and lacking much of a lumbering gait. It was made as an all around military and service Petalia, although it has become a favorite of farmers and herders. This breed had a predecessor that died out as the Greek was stronger and better muscled.

The breed must have dark fur and hair. Agouti genes are permitted. The eyes can be any shade of green. The body is of average height but is packed with lean muscle. It as large paws and a short sturdy back. Because it is not very vocal, it is a favorite for those seeking quiet. A good shepherd and protective of its territory the Greek is famous for fending off foes.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/15


	19. Hungary

The Hungary:

The Hungary breed developed later, after most Petalia went mainstream. Seeing the lack of females, they set out to encourage higher probability of female births. The extremes taken to get there has resulted in a "male famine" in which males are rare. This has happened in other breeds as well. The Hungary came from a large mix of European breeds. Considered an "all around" Petalia, it can do any job its family needs. It is a lighter build that has limited drafting skill, but is often considered a good hunter and tracker with a known personality of being extremely dependable. Good parents, they do well as single or in pairs. The high fertility rates make it a common pet. However it is a high energy Petalia that enjoys working and is strong.

The breed is highly refined. Strong but slim legs are shorter than most breeds. One of the few long haired breeds which may be cut to any fashion. They have brown hair and green eyes. The paws are short, thin and very silent. The breed is one of the lightest weight wise in comparison to its height. The combination of ultra lean muscles and dense but small bones. This breed tends to have a wider hip and stance in the hind, and a slim stance in its front.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

80/1


	20. Iceland

The Iceland:

This breed is often considered an off shoot of Scandinavian breeds. In particular, the Norway was responsible for almost all its blood. Extreme culling practices have narrowed down the Iceland to a very textbook type Petalia that is reliable. Because of its location it does well in the snow and cold climates. Hunting, swimming, jumping, herding, and just about all other chores can be done by this one breed. Developed for personal use, it is a calm breed not interested in fighting or warfare. The breed does have a strong spirit though and in competition it can show. Recently, a push for more variety and size was made and some Russia blood was added. It is known to be very quiet and not vocal. It can exist happy as a single Petalia or in small herds.

The breed is a tiny bit smaller than most, on average only by three centimeters. The body is powerful, lean, and built for snow. The paws are a little larger, but not enough to help in the snow fall as originally intended. As a result, the adding of Russia blood was an effort to make the Iceland better in the snow. While the hair remained white, the blue eyes were dominated by the violet color. Both are now accepted as breed standard. Wide paws are desired as well as a wide stance. The breed is also considered "gaited". This means the animal has a different pace or addition pace than its walk, trot, lope and run. It was dubbed the "Ice Pace". While the breed's claws are wide and pike like to grip ice, the ball of the paw hitting first, the additional gate is different. The hind end falls and the front end rises high and "slams" down. The pace is slow but tests the stability of unknown grounds.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/35


	21. Italy North

The Italy, Northern:

By far one of the most popular Petalia available, the North Italy breed has won over many people. The base stock for the breed was the Rome but as breeders began to refine the animal, there was a split in what was considered best to add. The North Italy breed had European blood added to it, mostly from Austrian, German, and other countries existing stock. Heavy bulky individuals were culled or not bred in order to produce a light racing breed. It was selected to be very fast, agile, and flexible. However many breeders kept breeding animals which were skittish and thus the breed has a reputation of being rather fearful and jumpy. Despite this, it enjoys being with a family and is very "herd bound." This breed prefers to live in very large herds or be part of a human family. While racing is often their strong point, they can be difficult to train because they will get overwhelmed. Hunting and tracking is another sport the breed does good in. This breed has had almost all aggression bred from it and is excellent with children and other animals.

The set standard is for a small, compact, animal with slim legs and light frame. Muscle is as lean and dense as possible. The hair must be brown or Auburn and the fur either brown or Agouti. The eyes are usually a golden Amber but can also be brown. Some rare members may express grey eyes which come from its early mixing in European blood. The skin can range from a medium pale to an olive. The spine is ultra flexible and strong. The paws are small and silent as they hit the ground. The gait during running is a double suspension and often then joints will be hyper flexed. On the skull there is an erogenous zone where the hair will curl from. This breed is known to do well with all animals and is very loving.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/30


	22. Italy South

The Italy, South:

Compared to its Northern brother, the Southern has many differences because breeders wanted select traits that were argued over. Generally, it came down to belief in which types of Petalia made better racers. The southern had a heavy Spanish influence with their studs making heavy changes in the breed. The Southern strain of the breed was kept from other European influences. More spirited and aggressive animals were bred into this breed, believing that dominating personalities would be more driven to win races. It is however rather skittish and prone to flight rather than fight. This can make them somewhat difficult to train and maintain. Often considered single Petalia, they prefer being on their own with personal space and can become agitated with annoying herd members.

The breed standard is for olive tone skin or darker. The hair must always be brown but the fur can be brown or agouti. Eye colors can range from green, hazel or amber. The size is often considered smaller than most. The body is lean but heavier in muscles than the northern. Wider paws are common but always tapered in the shape of a spear. As with its brother, the skull must have an erogenous zone marked by a curl in the hair. Because of its rather fiery personality it is left for more experienced handlers. Racing tracks around the world have adjusted their stables for the Southern Italy's comfort, such as solid stalls and individual paddocks to lounge in.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/30


	23. Japan

The Japan:

A very popular breed from the Island of Japan, many consider it one of the purest breeds. Developed only from Asian foundation Petalia the set standard is very rarely deviated from. Know to be very quiet, calm, gentle, and tame they are very popular in Japan as well as Europe and the Americas. Originally a novelty pet this breed was strictly culled to make only the finest specimens available. A good worker with many uses, it can hold its own in the racing world and hunting. Swimming is a particular skill as is tracking. It pulls some Petalia carriages but drafting is not a strong point. This breed loves to eat and is not picky, but also boasts a high metabolism which can make it a hard keeper. It is known to like other animals but is very much content living on its own from other Petalia. Noise is sometimes known to agitate some individuals.

The standards are very clear with this breed. Brown eyes are the only ones accepted and black is the only hair color permitted. Fur can vary somewhat between black, brown and agouti. The flesh is encouraged to be pale but some can boast a slightly darker tone. The eyes are large and expressive. A short body that is built with fine bones and lean muscle is made for work. They are good breeders and separate from their pups well when it comes time for the breeder to sell them. Japan and most of Asia race either this breed or the China, but usually cannot go against the longer stride of the European racers. As for swimming, it is almost unsurpassed.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/20


	24. Latvia

The Latvia:

A small breed of both Slavic and European blood, this breed was ushered into creation by the government. This breed was suppose to be the "Smallest Fighter" and able to be cost effective as well as useful. The program only succeeded in part of its plan. It is one of the smallest breeds averaging almost thirty six centimeters shorter than most. While skilled in many things, it is not aggressive and very often more of a flight animal than a fight one. It's heavy Slavic breeding did not aid its personality, rather it made it an agreeable, loving little pet which "sticks like Velcro" to its owner. One of its traits is exceptionally healthy livers and the ability to consume large amounts of alcohol without ill effect. In places where water has been contaminated or health epidemic, it is not a problem to feed the breed beers, spirits and other distilled products. It is also considered an added supplement to pack on calories since the breed has a habit of being too thin.

The standard has some variety compared to other breeds. It has wavy hair which must be blonde but the shade of blonde can range from dark to very light. The fur must match the hair color within a few degrees of lightness or darkness. The eyes usually depict the dominate breeding. Blue for heavier European lines and violet for Russian. Its small paws are fan like and disperse weight well over ground. A slim chest and hips makes for agility and it is known for quick bursts of speed. The stamina is somewhat lacking and slow and steady is a better pace for them. Usually they get along well with others but their fearful disposition can make them stranger wary. They are considered great workers in agriculture but not in military as they don't like the stress of battle.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/35


	25. Liechtenstein

The Liechtenstein:

This is one of the few female ratio dominate breeds available. Made from mostly European studs, the breed had heavy Swiss and German influences. It was first developed to make a unique breed for the country, while as before Swiss or Austrian breeds were very popular. They made a breed which happened to produce a massive number of females. Often considered loving and gentle, the breed is a hit with families. They often will stick to their herds and not wander. Most members of the breed do not need a leash. Extremely hardy, small portions of food, harsh cold weather, and rough terrain are easily dealt with.

The breed is small and generally considered refined. They have less bone and muscle than most but store fat well. The hair must be blonde and the eyes green. Because of its relaxed and mature nature, the Liechtenstein doesn't excel in competitions of physical skill. Rather, tracking, hunting, and on some occasions swimming is noted as enjoyable but not fast enough to keep up with breeds with more muscle ratio. Thin shoulders and legs, and narrow deep chest and a petite neck are the hallmarks of the breed. They excel in Conformation shows and as a family pet, especially homes with children.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

70/1


	26. Lithuania

The Lithuania:

Multiple breeds lead to the creation of the Lithuania. Slavic and European studs are the primary bloodlines, with Slavic making up almost ninety percent. Refined from there, the breed developed first for military then later for regular pet status. Its military background helped it out as it does well in most disciplines and in labour. The breeds timid and docile personality was bred into it after military programs closed. In the north Americas it is very popular because of its disposition. In Europe, it is a common worker to see. Known best for agriculture the bred is a great guardian of livestock without being too independent. Many wagons in small villages are pulled by this breed and are left to protect children.

The breeds standard is somewhat strict to ensure good quality animals of standard coloration to make all the breed appear "iconic" to the word. The only hair color and fur color permitted is brown. Agouti is not acceptable. The length of coat must be medium to long with no white markings permitted. The eyes can be blue or green with green generally being most popular in its homeland and blue elsewhere. The breed is of average height with a square stance, working gait, and medium paws. The neck should be refined and not heavy with powerful but compact shoulders and hips. The legs are somewhat longer than the body. This breed is known to require a little extra grooming.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/30


	27. Netherlands

The Netherlands:

Refined European blood and some Nordic went into the making of this highly militarized breed. Created solely for security and military purposes mixed breeds of European blood went into the base stock. Part of its development was based on the goal of making an aggressive and driven animal. They program was a success and the large draft type Netherland breed was made. They excel in physical disciplines but can be a challenge to train, often having its own will. It's nature of being very strong and independent lead to many trainers not being able to handle them so alteration of the breeding program began. After a large surplus of litters were born the government ran into problems finding work for the upcoming stock. Although driven to be superb performers the general public had many issues raising them for pets. Farmers loved the breeds strength but fought with its personality. High prey drives left it untrustworthy with small or vulnerable animals. Hunters had better luck as their adventurous spirit and hunting drive paired with the high energy in the breed made taking down game easy. The breed was also noted to be an excellent in swimming, although slow. The surplus lead to the slaughter of generations of the breed, culling out the most aggressive. Public outcry stopped the killing but the result became a slightly more docile animal with drive, hard work ethic, but still rather willful. Their sense of self pride could not be bred or killed out of them.

The breed has some variations making it's coloration standard less strict than its conformational one. The breed can have both blonde or brown hair. Fur can be brown, blonde, or agouti, with some individuals having black fur. The eyes have just as much deviation. Green, blue and amber are all accepted colors. Tall and stocky, it is considered a traditional draft breed with a slightly slimmer frame for added agility. The paws are large and wide and the hair and fur is extremely thick. If the Petalia has a tail, it is generally a long length fur. Only sword shaped tails are permitted.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/38


	28. Norway

The Norway:

The Norway is a very pure Nordic breed derived from foundation stock. It was made to replace some animals and as a pet or guardian which made the breed popular in its come country. Quiet but prideful, its territory is fiercely guarded including family. While earlier members of the breed proved very hostile, they have since calmed and enjoy peaceful environments. Tall and very lean, the breed burns fat well and has thicker skin than most. It is an excellent swimmer and often wins competitions. Tracking, hiking, hunting, cross country, and jumping are only a few of the events the breed is known for.

The breed standard has little deviation. Blonde hair with blue eyes is the only color accepted. Blonde fur is also the only fur coloration accepted. The breed has long limbs and a tall stance however is made only from lean muscles and is not considered a draft type. The fur is thick as is the hair which sometimes has a wave in the back. The tail has long fur but is thick and powerful under the flesh.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/20


	29. Poland

The Poland:

This breed was made from a large mix of Slavic and European blood which was later refined. The breed was created for an all around animal that would work at home and in the military. Known for being rather forceful and strong willed it isn't the easiest animal to get under control. It is wary of strangers and usually makes a good guardian. It can be a little troublesome as it is adventurous and bold. The breed is also noted for high energy and excitable. Resistant to cold it can work year round without issue.

The breed has only one permitted coloration of blonde hair and green eyes. It is however one of the few breeds that permits variety of fur patterns from black, brown, blonde and agouti. White markings are permitted. Counter shading is also very popular in the breed. Its stance is slightly smaller but build hardy. The paws should be of medium size with a spade shape which helps with stealth. It is safe with animals but may play too rough with young children. Altering the breed is known to make it calmer and more agreeable. It is an excellent hunter and tracker.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/25


	30. Prussia

The Prussia:

One of two German breeds, the Prussia was less popular than its brother due to its different personality. The Prussia is extremely bold and daring although incredibly willful. It isn't at all easy to get control of nor train. Despite this, the breed is considered highly intelligent but lacking respect of humans. Highly skilled trainers are the only ones able to truly control members of this breed. It is a fighter and isn't afraid of standing its ground, making training more of a task. Made solely for military purpose, the breed is strong, agile, courageous and stealthy. Considered "scavengers" they sometimes flank larger herds to pick off their kills. As solitary Petalia, it doesn't form herds. Unlike most Petalia it doesn't choose a life mate but rather will track a female and breed, sticking around only until the pups are old enough to be weaned and the burden is off the mother. High energy and opportunistic, apartments are not for this Petalia. The breed is excellent in running, tracking, hiking, jumping, swimming, schutzhund, hunting and pulling are all sports the Prussia excels in.

The Prussia originally had wide variation but after an albino mutation and a white mutation entered the gene pool in the most prominent studs almost all members became albino or white albino. Pure albino coloration calls for a pink skin, white or platinum fur and hair, and a very silky fine texture to the hair and fur. The eyes must be red or in very rare cases blue. The White Albino is simply an albino which carries the white gene. The skin is pale but not pink. The hair is white and no tint of yellow is permitted. The eyes must be red. White albinos do not suffer from the same skin and eye aliments as normal albinos, so the white gene is very sought after. A majority of the breed is now white albino which increased the lifespan significantly. All members of the breed are a little shorter than average Petalia height. The breed is built for agility and speed as well as power, mixing the best of these elements to make an incredibly useful animal. Its rough personality however, make it hard to own. Many escape from owners and wind up in the wild. Generations of feral Petalia can be spotted throughout Germany, especially in national parks and in the mountains. Because of its stealth it is often considered very lucky to see a feral Prussia in the wild.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/40


	31. Russia

The Russia:

The largest Petalia breed in the world, this massive animal took many years of work to create. It was listed officially as a Draft type because of its thick bones, muscles and stature but its considered by some to be a sport type as well. Made from only the biggest stock, the breed is born 3cm larger at birth than other breeds and sometimes up to half a kg heavier. They store fat evenly and very well. Super digestive tracts are able to extract nutrients and eat most any food. The will to survive is very strong in the breed as well as self preservation. So much so, that when food is scarce or winters are extremely cold, males and females will leave pups to die in order to save themselves so they can produce again. Even resulting to cannibalism of offspring to save themselves or the strongest pup. Highly playful they often are said to have the minds of human children, along with the cruelty of them. Generally, the breed is always happy and playful or appears that way. This breed is hard to read emotionally and can snap without warning is provoked. Its strength is unmatched, able to pull 3-5 times its own body weight and carry double its weight, the Russia is a champion in the draft ring and in agriculture. Fighting is also a strong point both legal and illegal. Studies show that Russia's in the wild have a more playful and docile nature than domesticated ones. It is suspected the pressures of human civilization and social structure pressure the animal too much. Farmers in rural areas seem to have success with the breed while more populated areas seem to have more trouble. The Russia is banned from most areas of populated United States, Canada, and Europe. The risk of bite is high and it boosts the strongest jaw in the Petalia kingdom. It is not recommended to be around livestock or children. Despite the stigma attached to the breed, when left to its own it is a rather easy going animal with playful tendencies.

The breeds standard coloration calls only for blonde hair and fur which is thick and straight. Should the Petalia have a tail modification it is known to have the most fur, often described as "poofy" which adds to the breeds overall appearance as an "adorable giant". Blue eyes are permitted but almost all members of the breed have violet eyes. The jaw is strong but rounder cheeks can hide its appearance occasionally. The canines must be sharp and often very wide. The paws are wide, long, and massive compared to the second largest Petalia by weight and size, Germany. The females of the breed are smaller and hold more fat and less muscle. The nose is larger to allow for better warming of air. It is a master in the snow although, if given the choice, may prefer to lay in front of the fire than do work in the snow. Because of the breeds size, it is prone to abuse, which it doesn't take well. Many trainers are trying to make a Russia Petalia Training System to help owners give their Petalia a better life and be more true to its more docile side.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/38


	32. Sealand

The Sealand:

This breed was directly developed by English stock and bred to be a small, personable pet. It was built for swimming and is agile. The smallest Petalia on average, it is almost one third smaller than the average Petalia. They are known to keep their pup mentality their entire lives. Because of its smaller size it was a hit with apartment dwellers as well as families. It requires little food and can be trusted with other pets. It has the same drives to compete as many other Petalia but its size puts it at a disadvantage in many sports. Instead it seems swimming, tracking and hiking are its only strong suits.

The standard calls for only blonde hair and fur. The tails fur, should the Petalia have one, is sometimes shorter but can range to long. The eyes can be green or blue with blue being the most widely seen. The eyebrows should be thicker and the eyes themselves very large. It is also a very light Petalia with fine bones and little muscling.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/20


	33. Spain

The Spain:

The Spain is a breed which has been heavily influenced by many breeds and who boosts a health array of clean genetic lines in comparison to most other purebreds. As a result the bred is often considered one of the healthiest breeds next to the long lifespan of the Japan and China. While it is known best to be a "Sporting" type of Petalia its origins were heavily emphasized with military and tracking. One of the best endurance Petalia, they set into a slow, collected gait and can plot along for an entire day without rest. Made to endure the heat, the breed is very driven and focused. As a result they can ignore the situations around them. The breed is a prolific breeder and is known to have its "Bonded" mate for life and raise all pups. Despite being cheery, the breed is known to be dominating and has the strength to compete with most breeds.

The standard calls for a precise coloring of brown hair and green eyes with no variation. The fur is permitted to be brown, black or agouti. Some individuals can heavily bleach in the sun thus making them appear non-standard so many competition Spain's are kept from sunlight or limited from it. The breed is lead but has dense and powerful muscles with large thick tendons. It should have a well muscles rump and stomach which help its lofty gait. The breed's male rump should be slightly rounder than other breeds instead of being square. The fur and hair are thinner with an olive toned skin that is resistant to sun burning. The Spain competes well in both The bred is noted to be excellent with children, animals and pups but can be aggressive with other males or strangers.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/38


	34. Sweden

The Sweden:

One of largest Petalia in the world it is often considered the tallest with the breed standard height matching the Russia. The Sweden is often nicknamed the "Gentle Giant". Its size and stoic stance often deters people. However, the Sweden is often considered a gentle Petalia that is protective of its family and friends. It gets along great with all animals and is one of the few breeds that must look intimidating but be docile. It's original purpose was military and civil service. Meant to look like formidable beasts, they often made criminals and intruders back down before a fatal fight would begin. Because of its native countries neutral status, it quickly became a mascot of Petalia and was taken into the home. This breed is absent of "pup" behavior when young and are often said to be born into their "adult" stage. Many people however underestimate the breeds power. Although it is not formidable in weight compared to height, its jaws rank high in power and one misstep can injure a human without intent. On its hinds it can tower over a man and pin him without effort.

This breed has some variation in its looks. It must have blonde hair of any range from platinum to dirty blonde. The eyes are noted for a blue "tint" which is usually mixed with other colors. Brown blue, Green blue, green, and blue are all accepted however brown on its own is not. The hair is thick and short while the fur is double coated and grows in heavily in the winter. The paws are massive and panned out to distribute weight over the snow. It has a low heart rate and breathing at rest, so much so that many thought their pets had died. Averaging as low as 6 breathes per minute and a heart rate of 40 beats per minute. Not easily stressed or flustered, they rarely spook or get frightened. This breed is known to be a hard breeder and even in musk may refuse to breed. In addition the rate of female births is significantly lower than average. Many males often seem to prefer other males as partners. Altering the males doesn't help curb mounting habits, a known vice in the breed. Despite this when pups are born they are incredibly well nurtured. So well cared for are the pups that the mortality rate is actually lower than many breeds known for being good parents.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/40


	35. Switzerland

The Switzerland

This highly refined Petalia is a prime example of a Military Petalia. It was created solely for the purpose of defense and put to use on the borders of Switzerland. This breed is still seen patrolling the borders, railways, airports, and in post offices. Although a fraction smaller on average, the animal has a good balance between speed and agility and power. The Switz was first brought home by government employees once the Petalia in service were deemed too old to work. While all males are neutered to work in public places, it has a very controllable temperament. It is more of solitary creature which may at most form a nuclear family of only a mother and pups. Fiercely territorial, it is known to be an excellent guard animal with high energy and drive. Hailing from multiple Germanic, French, and Italian lines it has a good amount of fresh blood and little line or inbreeding was needed.

One of the few medium length hair breeds, the coloration of hair must be blonde. Green eyes are the only accepted color. Fur can be any color besides red and white markings are permitted. The paws are wide and large in proportion to its body with dense refined bone. The tendons are very elastic and give the Petalia a smooth way of going. The spine is long and flexible. Usually the underside of the feet are pinker. It is a very independent breed that is often left alone to do its work. They can be hard to train as they feel their own agenda is best.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/35


	36. Turkey

The Turkey

Often simply called the Turk, this is an old breed from Turkey which has gone under a few changes in recent years. Although old, its type is still true to a working draft, although its stature has lightened recently. The breed is known for power, endurance, and a feral mysterious disposition. Little studies have been done to find out how it behaves in the wilderness as they are very elusive, much like the Prussia, but with such natural camouflage they are hard to track. The breed came from a mix of feral Petalia native and roaming in the area. Over time, selective breeding and line breeding made it possible to turn the scruffy strays into powerful beasts of burden. Their deep need for privacy and independent nature is one of the most difficult to deal with. Most trainers actually never see their animals "true face" and often the Petalia behaves differently around people. Very energetic and flashy, it loves to show off and do well in a show ring. Competitive and hot blooded show handlers need experience before handling one. It is territorial but does enjoy meeting new Petalia whom are passing by and not planning to stay. They love food and are considered master food thieves, stealing from their master's kitchen and strays being a large problem in open markets.

Because it was made from feral Petalia it is unknown what breeds exactly went into it. With such close breeding there is little genetic variation. The hair is short but is allowed to be curled. It must be brown and the eyes can be green or brown with green being rarer. The flesh must be at least a light tan with darker individuals considered more prized. Some facial fur is accepted on the jaw for males but not for females. The paws are large and the shoulders thick and broad. The bite is very strong and many have found work in the military or local government. Farmers rarely use "True" Turks but rather the original feral strains which are much leaner and smaller, with a less independent strain.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

1/40


	37. Ukraine

The Ukraine

A very old breed, it predates the Russia and is one of the few high female ratio breeds available. A mix of local feral animals made up the first members of the breed but was quickly refined. It is also only breed which had milk as a breeding characteristic. Often mixed with Russia blood, the hybrid pups are often mellow, gentle, and great workers, taking largely after the Ukraine. They are a very loving, mothering breed that love their pups and family. For this reason they are trusted with fragile livestock and young children. They are however very sensitive animals and can be skittish if yelled at. Although they breed well, saying goodbye to their pups is a hard time and the mother often gets distressed. The male will as well with often times both parents spending years mourning the loss of a pup. For this reason, dairy and breeders often have mothers birth in a neck harness which keeps them laid down and unable to see their newborns, who are whisked away and bottle fed or put on another female of a different breed.

Very tall and lumbering, it is a light draft breed that loves to work on the farmlands. Often nervous in large cities, the breed is at home with a family and animals. While the height is usually taller, the weight is lighter than most animals of the same size. Dense muscle, rather than large muscle should be seen. The breasts, like all females, do not form until it is time to lactate but they should be extremely large. Milk should have a fat content of no less than 20% and be very sweet. The hair must be blonde but it is preferred to be a platinum shade with blue eyes. The hair is short and thick. The flesh should be a pale milk white with little tanning. The fur can be white, blonde, crème, agouti or diluted agouti. Black, brown or spotted fur isn't accepted although it may sport white markings. The paws are very large and you can hear the breed running or walking along. Often used for draft, they are happy workers. Dairy Petalia have a good life and can give milk until death of the same quality all its life. Producing a good 4 kg of milk per day. Because of its gentle, down to earth nature it is a great Petalia for a beginner.

1= small, less required, not recommended, poor, or difficult.

5= large, easy, highly recommended, excellent

3= Average

Grooming

1 2 3 4 5

Health

1 2 3 4 5

Size

1 2 3 4 5

Training

1 2 3 4 5

Children

1 2 3 4 5

Power

1 2 3 4 5

Female Birth Rate:

100/1


	38. Rare Breeds

**Unusal, rare, or sub breeds:**

The following are breeds that are rare, a type of a larger breed or rare to the Petalia world. Not much information is gathered on these breeds and registries for them are either new or non-existent as of yet.

**Albania:**

This breed has no official registry or type. Local mixed breeds bred for hardiness and work make up a large part of population. They can have any hair and fur color. This is a male dominate breed. Considered a "sport" type, even though it is meant to work, its stride and sense of pride is very fashionable with the higher classed citizens.

**Czechoslovakia:**

Another breed without registry, it is one of the few known to have equal birthrates of male and female. It is also a considerably more "furry" breed, often sporting facial hair in males. More made for labor, the combination of strong but hardy is the trend.

**Ireland:**

The Ireland breed is a developing breed based from local stock and some minor England breed influences. It is a slightly smaller breed which carried the red gene. Though many of the breed sport different colors such as black, blonde and brown. The flesh is extremely pale.

**Luxembourg:**

This is a small elegant breed made purely for good looks and trend. It is not suited to the heavy farm work but is rather a "lap dog". The breed remains rare outside of its native home. It is a little shorter than most breeds.

**Moldova:**

This breed has no set standard but is a mix of several breeds made into one "type". The breed is known to be a hard worker, lithe, light on its feet, and very hardy. The hair is thicker and a little longer than other breeds. Sometimes referred to as a "shaggy" breed.

**North Ireland:**

A branch off the original Ireland breed, this breed has a very "old" style of appearance. A downhill build with a stocky frame. The flesh is very pale. Very rough terrain make it surefooted and a hard worker.

**Scotland:**

A draft breed that was made from powerful local Petalia. It is big boned but usually playful. Rare, its food demands are high. Friendly to strangers and brave, it is known to have a good drive for competition.

**Romania:**

A rare disorganized breed that is coming together to make a standard. Hard working, there has been a long competition with the Hungary breed. The Romania is believed to be male dominant however is plagued with a shorter lifespan. A hard worker, it often can be seen pulling carts or on farms.

**India:**

A breed that is often considered an exotic outside of India, many run wild in the long stretches of wilderness. A beautiful dark flesh is accented with black fur and hair. Short in stature but lithe and athletic, only India has a registry for them. Other countries have yet to recognize it as a breed. Found working or as pets among the wealthy they have a large population overall. Wild ones are in the rich jungles and wetlands. Elusive hunters and survivors, it is believed that it may be an even ratio gender breed.

**Mongolia:**

While a registry is being formed, the type variation in the breed is great. Some are stock while others are lithe. A male dominant breed, it has an olive to dark skin and usually black or brown hair. It can have white markings as well as the agouti gene. Able to survive harsh winters and live on little food, these Petalia are often prized by their families. Nomadic people often have their Petalia sleep inside their hut or tent and bury the dead ones in ceremony.

**North Korea:**

While little is known and no registry outside Korea recognizes it yet, this breed is very popular within the country. Black or brown fur and hair is the only color allowed with a pale to olive tone skin. Dark eyes are only accepted. Hard working, it has been made into a "sport" type that excels with its European competitors but lack of bloodline records deems it difficult to say which individuals may have proven advantages. Know to be wary of strangers and timid, they bond only to their family.

**South Korea**:

A bolder more aggressive Petalia. It has a great sense of pride and preservation. A high female ratio breed, it looks very similar to the North Korea with the except of having long hair and fur. They have high prey drive.

**Tibet:**

A breed made by monks, it has become extremely rare because of its mass slaughter by invading Chinese military. A companion to monks, the breed is the hallmark of calm and gentle. It is a scavenger for meat and seems to have an extreme sensitivity to life and death. Very warm and giving, they roam mountains and temples of Tibet to be friends with locals and monks. Known to only grow a tuff of fur on the head, they don't have much fur or hair. They now number less than 100 documented individuals. Because they stood between Monks and military troops, many were shot or beaten to death. Survivors have retreated far into remote inaccessible areas.

**Thailand:**

A breed with a little known set standard its believe to vary in height, weight, and stature. Coloration is usually black or brown with a paler flesh. The breed is often seen working in cities or farms. It is often employed as an elephant guardian, and seems to be agile with a natural ability to co-exist with these animals. Very carefree and playful, they are usually very loved and well cared for by their families.

**Vietnam:**

This is a high female ratio breed. It has long hair and a lithe agile body. Dark colored furs and hairs are the only excepted type. War has lessened their numbers but the breed is extremely strong and courageous.

**African Breeds:**

While there are almost 50 or more devolving breeds none has a registry or standard. It is a darker fleshed breed but a wide array of coat colors and hair is seen. Eye color also varies from black to even some shades of yellow and blue. Albino genes are known to exist in several gene pools. Most are bred to be extremely efficient and agile. In Africa, they are raced and bring in large net incomes of cash and goods to owners. They do however have problems breeding these Petalia who are often strong willed and very proud.

**Australia:**

A breed from imported European stock, it relies heavily on blood from the U.K and western Europe. A small breed with speed and agility it is resistant to heat and cold. Brown hair and green eyes are the standard but the stud book remains open which means some changes can be made. Very bold and adventurous, herds are often seen harassing crocodiles and snakes. It seems to enjoy hunting other apex predators than primary consumers, killing off the hopes that it would help vermin issues such as rabbits and mice.

**Mexico:**

A breed of multiple influences, the registry is still open. The variation is so great that almost every gene is accepted. Somewhat shorter, it is a stocky working breed that is agile, fast, reliable and in general happy. Because of its mixed influences it is hard to get a firm background on individuals. Powerful with a strong survival instinct, they are not pets and shouldn't be treated as such.

**New Zealand:**

Another breed of heavy English and Western European influences, this rare breed has a set standard of blonde medium length wavy hair and light eyes. A little shorter but lithe, it is a good worker. Rare even in its home country, it is a flock guardian breed that is very gentle to other animals. It is believed to be equal gender ratio.


	39. Petalia: Dont's

Petalia Don'ts

Certain breeds don't get a long or have natural aversions to things. The following is a quick "Do Not Do" for owners.

-Never put together a Russia and America breed. The Russia breed is a playful however very humble. A short fuse for agitating play. The American breed often picks and agitates others into play. As a result, the Russia tries to put the other Petalia back in its place, because the American breed cannot just walk away it spurs the Russia on creating fights. A Prussia should also never be put in with a Russia for similar reasons.

-The England and France breed are best left to themselves.

-Do not put young females in with a France

-Do not stare into the eyes of an Russia or Prussia.

-Never try and separate bonded mates

-Do not let a Russia breed in with younger or more submissive breeds

-Never let a Sealand in with an England, the England will quickly get agitated and snap at the tiny breed.

-Under no circumstances put two breeding bull Russia's in the same area, or put other bulls in with an excited Russia

-Belarus breed should be kept away from Russia breeds

-Germany breeds do well with Northern Italy breed but not the southern variation.

-France breeds should be separate from any Germany.

-Keep a Canada breed safe from stronger more aggressive breeds, the Canada breed doesn't like fights.

-The England breed should be kept away from beer

-Norway and Sweden breeds seem to have a natural aversion to each other. Do not force them together.

-Netherland breed should remain a solitary Petalia. Never let it get hold of smaller breeds or submissive animals.

-Keep unneutered Frances contained at all times, avoid letting them have contact with females of any species and children.

-Greece and Turkey breeds should be kept separate. The two breeds feed off each other's powerful wills and often wind up fighting.

-Never allow a Prussia breed to roam free or off its leash. It will run away and often times not come back.

-Sensitive mothering breeds such as the Ukraine, Germany, Egypt, Hungary, Liechtenstein and Belgium should be treated with extra care when pups are taken from them. Especially the Germany and Ukraine, as they often react badly when their young are taken.

-Do not crossbreed Russia breeds with other powerful or aggressive breeds.

-France breed has a tendency to try to mate to anything. The high sex drive is curbed by neutering or spaying your pet.

-Never encourage play biting. Petalia jaws are strong and can seriously injure a man.

-Greece breed should be neutered as it has a high sex drive and often will roam in search of females. Studs should be kept secured to avoid unwanted litters.

-Tibet breed should be kept as a one person Petalia or with very submissive Petalia.

-Germany breeds rarely breed well outside their own breed or close relative breeds, never force breeding on any Petalia.

-Do not crossbreed Prussia breeds, as most out crossings result in just as if not more than unruly animal.


	40. Petalia: Nutrition

Nutrition:

Each Petalia has different nutritional requirements. When feeding your pet you must make sure that they are meeting the minimum requirements or they could suffer from aliments. Even breed differences can dictate diet. While Petalia are Omnivores, most consume almost half or more of their nutrition from meat. In the winter, feral Petalia often get 100% of their calories from meat. When available, Petalia do love plant material and will readily consume staple crops and fruits or vegetables. There are very few foods that the Petalia cannot digest which include some flowers, leaves, grasses and certain parts of trees.

Luckily a domestic Petalia doesn't have to fend for its food. The owner has a wide variety of choices and should consult their vet about what is best for their pet. Since most pets are fixed males, they require a standard diet. Athletes, pregnant females, studs, and lactating females need more customized diets. A top athlete can require up to 30% of its body weight in food, as can most studs. Pregnant or nursing females need at least 25% of their body weight. Pups generally need about 10%, while females need about 15% and males 20%. Petalia can eat several kilograms in one sitting. There are 2 options when feeding. "Pet" food and "People" food.

**Kibbled:** Kibbled food is widely available in stores and can be bought in bulk. Meals can cost only cents when it comes to this type of food. Kibble is a mix of foods cooked, extruded, cut and baked. The food is crunchy and hard which can be unappealing to many Petalia. Most of the product is made up of grain and meat. Surplus staple grains such as corn, soy, and oats are often the main source of calories. Meat is usually in the form of by-products such as liver, kidney, skin, and other parts of animals. Some animal fat is added or vegetable oil in order to boost calorie content and fat. Depending on the brand they may add in minerals and vitamins or add fruits or vegetable material. Recently some brands of kibble have been trying to alter the traditional "cheap and fast" food by making their kibble out of more meat and plants than staple grains. These food however are more expensive.

**Dried**: This is a new food to the market and often times a high calorie meal for mothers, studs and athletes. This food is simply dried meats, powdered oats and grains, dried vegetables and fruits mixed together often with added nuts such as peanuts. This is a high fat food that encourages eating. Because a mere pound can have over 2,000 calories and a Petalia can eat several kilograms in one sitting, it is easier to meet the nutritional requirements for certain Petalia. Dried foods are expensive and can only be bought in bulk sizes. This isn't a very popular option for the average Petalia. Dried can have some water added to soften the food. This food is a good compromise for those that want the nutrition of fresh food but cannot make it fresh.

**Semi-Moist**: This food is made from a grain and meat base paste which is extruded but kept moist for flavor. It often contains more vegetable material than kibble with a higher retention of nutrients. Many Petalia prefer this type over kibbled and the cost of it is only slightly more than kibbled. This type of food is common in most stores but does require special keeping. Once opened it may be wise to keep it in a refrigerator. This food requires fast consumption and is prone to spoiling.

**Canned:** Unlike most pet foods which come in ounces or grams, Petalia cans come in kilogram sizes. Canned food has become extremely popular. This type of food is very nutrient rich, has a pleasant flavor, and is widely available. Most canned foods are meat based. Cheaper foods will shred meat, grains, and vegetables into a paste and can that. More quality brands will have hole cuts of muscle, chopped vegetables, a stock with a staple grain binder, and whole grains. Petalia enjoy canned food and it comes in many varieties. The cans store well and have a long shelf life, making it easy and convenient for owners. Different formulas are made for males or females as are growing Petalia, breeding Petalia and nursing Petalia. Special high calorie formulas have also hit the market for athletes along with a diet formula which reduces the amount of calories but keeps the same volume of food and adding less oils.

**Fresh:** There are two options when it comes to fresh food for your pet. One is packaged fresh foods which expire fast and can be expensive, or preparing yourself which requires testing from your vet to make sure your homemade diet is meeting the animal's needs. The sheer massive amounts of food can be overwhelming for one person to make. Fresh packaged food is a good option for those that can afford it. It is available in bagged portions and wide amounts of flavors. Most of the fresh market is organic and natural. Fresh food is the best choice as it has the most nutritional value and highest flavor, so Petalia eat it up. Most meals must consist of a meat, vegetable, and grain. Nuts, milk and eggs are great to add in as snacks. Some Petalia cannot drink milk so bone meal can be added for calcium.

**Grain:** Grain is often pure staple grains mixed with other types of natural seeds to make a high calorie food that is cheap. Some grains are extruded, while others are a whole product. A vast majority of them are raw. Grain food is good to add as a meal for Petalia with high calorie demands but shouldn't be the Petalia's only source of nutrients. It lacks in protein, but is high in carbohydrates and fat. It is a poor source of minerals and only contains certain vitamins. Grains are often fed on large Petalia farms and with showers. The grains are available in 20, 40, and 50 kg sizes and are very affordable.

**People Food**: Some choose to just feed their Petalia what they eat on a larger scale and this is where breed often comes into a greater play. Italian breeds crave pasta and higher carbohydrates. The Germanic breeds prefer a high protein diet often made cheaper by supplying it with wurst and cheeses. The Asian breeds often trend more toward rice than eating pasta from wheat. Egypt breed prefers fruit based diets. The Russia breed is only known for its love of alcohol and isn't a picky eater. Potatoes are also widely consumed, especially in England, America, Canada, and European breeds. Each Petalia will have a specific taste but avoid oils, salt or processed foods. Many Petalia are allergic to preservatives and have a very sensitive salt intake. Never add salt to a petalia's food. Some alcohol may be added. Wine, Beer, vodka and rum are common things trainers and owners give to boost caloric intake and even enhance some foods, like cooking wurst in beer.

Since the Petalia has as many taste buds as a human, it is sensitive to flavor. Some maybe be picky eaters. Regardless of their love of human food, they shouldn't eat "bad" foods. Frozen, processed, and most quick meals such as pizza, fast foods, and boxed dinners shouldn't be fed to Petalia. Milk can sometimes cause a problem and some feral Petalia can be seen chewing on bones to get calcium. Petalia can eat thing like chocolate but in small amounts.

Often owners will feed their pets treats or snacks. Bagged treats are very popular but some other great treats are nuts, dried meat or vegetables, granola, and cereal flakes. Try not to feed treats too often as many are high in fat.

A Petalia should have a balanced diet of 33% of each fat, protein and carbohydrate. Some Petalia require less intake of food overall while others need less of only one group. Each Petalia should have a vet do a blood analysis to see what nutrients, if any, are deficient and do annual blood work to make sure the animal is healthy.

In addition to food, certain breeds are prone to prefer drink. Tea is fine to give your Petalia in small amounts. England, America, Canada, Spain, Italys, and France breeds all consume tea regularly in their home lands. Coffee is not recommended to be given as caffeine has a stronger effect on Petalia. Particularly the America breed which is prone to being caffeine sensitive. Beer is often given to Petalia in Europe, and in Germany it is part of the Petalia diet. In the heart of Europe, most Petalia are given beer and often it is beer which has been fermented with fruit to give it more flavor. Hard liquors aren't recommended but in Russia, farmers often give their Petalia a shot of vodka. Sometimes a very strong high proof alcohol is put into their water to help kill bacteria in less than reliable water supplies. In places where water isn't safe, most Petalia drink solely beer or distilled products. Milk can also be given in small amounts, usually mixed in with food. Weak or sick Petalia can be nursed back to health with animal milk. Starving Petalia are given small amounts of milk in addition to grains to recover. Raw milk is the only type usually given to Petalia or whole organic milk. Petalia have an acute and strong reaction to any kind of antibiotic or hormone given to dairy animals. Many Petalia actually consume Ukraine breed milk.

While caffeine, as mentioned earlier, is strong to Petalia, certain foods with caffeine can still be eaten. For example, dark chocolate can be eaten in very small amounts. Milk chocolate isn't tolerated by their digestive tract for some reason and even small amounts will make them ill. Petalia also seem to have trouble with refined, bleached, or processed sugar. As a result, raw sugar is used in making of Petalia treats. Sugar, particularly glucose, has a strong effect. The America breed tends to have a strong sweet tooth and remains very hyper hours after eating high sugar meals.

Obesity is also a rising problem in some countries with their Petalia. America, the U.K, France, and the Netherlands all have serious Petalia issues with weight, with a staggering 50% or more at over the recommended weight or having more body fat than needed. Of the 50% half of them are considered at risk because of their weight and one quarter of that group is considered dangerously overweight. It seems to be a diet related issues rather than lack of exercise for the Petalia, as they are often over fed high calorie foods.

Starvation is an issue as well. The highest rate of Petalia starvation is in Africa, India, China, Russia and Mongolia. The reason for the high numbers seems to be the amount of strays roaming the country. While most Petalia will leave to find a food source, parasites and contaminated drinking water take their toll. In Russia, lack of shelter can lead to the animal burning off all energy to keep warm. No one breed is at risk however mixed breeds seem to have higher numbers of death from starvation.


	41. Petalia: Housing

**Petalia Housing**:

Whiles some owners have no issue with keeping their Petalia in the home, many Petalia need other shelter. Some forms of shelter are banned in certain areas because of deed restrictions. Always check with your city if your property has zoning for larger shelters.

**Stable**: The choice of most state studs and competition Petalia owners. The Petalia live in at least a 3 meter by 4 meter space with most being 4x4 meters. The stalls can be any style from European to cattle gates but most prefer their Petalia to be separated from its neighbor. The room allows the animal to walk freely in a circle, have a nest, waste, and eating area. Breeding females are giving 5x5meter stalls so there is extra room for pups. Stables can house many Petalia and often stalls can be rented out with use of any training facility. Stables are also required my most laws to have some form of outside turn out so the animals can get out of their confines daily.

**Lean To/ Run Ins**: these are usually 3 walled structures that are in turnout. The Petalia chooses when it wants to be inside or outside. Most are larger than the standard 4x4 meters and can be used to house more Petalia legally than a single stall. Breeders utilize this with brood Petalia, turning females out together while pregnant or resting from pregnancy but all of them will share the same shelter.

**Kennel**: Very popular in more urban settings, the Kennel varies by shape and size. Legally, a Petalia needs to have enough space to turn around in and have head clearance. Hunting kennels or shed row kennels are used to fit many Petalia in a small space. If a kennel is used properly it is an acceptable form of housing. It is recommended that a Kennel only be used for sleeping though, and not be an all day housing.

**Cage**: Cages are used in some shelters and very often in illegal breeding operations. The cages keep the Petalia confined to one spot. Caged Petalia can develop sores because of the metal floor. While transportation cages can be large, illegal operations or mills prefer to stack as small a cages as they can fit the animal in up in rows.

**Crates**: Usually only meant for night sleeping for pups, its vital that a Petalia not stay in a crate too long or the same issues arise as a cage.

"**Dog House": **While requiring a larger "Dog house", this style of shelter is fine for a Petalia looking to get out of the rain if left in the yard. The house must fit the Petalia and be large enough for it to circle and lay down.

**Enclosures: **The most expensive option. This is a pen of usually 10-20 meters or more. It usually is made of a chain link fence and metal roofing. The Petalia will often have a nesting area, feeding area, and bathroom area. The floor is often natural, either grass or dirt. Petalia in zoos or in rehab centers often go into enclosures to get comfortable. Because of the size of enclosures, its often banned from certain urban areas.

**Inside Petalia**: Petalia that live indoors often do better bonding. While keeping a Petalia is a lot like keeping a dog, it's also a lot like keeping livestock in your home. Animals that are powerful and large lumbering around your furniture can be very damaging. Some choose to give their Petalia a soft nest or bed to lay in. Many prefer to stretch out on human furniture as well. Inside Petalia need to be house broken.

**Petalia in the Wild:** Because in the wilderness there is no boundary, Petalia mark their territory via urination. Petalia are often found close to water sources and where primary consumers live, such as deer and rabbits. Both males and females will make "nests". These are actually a little closer to dens then nests, being dug out burrows that are camouflaged for protection. The name "nest" came from the gathering of nesting materials into a soft bed which is changed if it is soiled or getting old. If the Petalia must migrate to get food, as many Petalia in Africa, Canada, Russia and India do, nests are temporary. In Europe and parts of America nests tend to be more permanent. A single male can rule over miles of land. Some breeds like the Prussia do not have territory per say but wander wherever they like. Petalia will also take advantage of natural caves that do not house bats or rock formations. Some even make use of abandoned homes or cabins. If a Petalia lives near people it can also be caught stealing soft things like blankets or clothing to use as nesting material or for warmth.

**Petalia Confinement:**

It is required in most areas that Petalia be confined by certain limitations. The gender of your Petalia can also mean you need to take extra steps in confining it.

**Fencing:**

There are many types of fencing available. In rural areas, electric fencing is used to keep Petalia in. The electrical current is much stronger than what is used for livestock, since Petalia have a strong will. Otherwise, high board or chain-link fencing is used. The minimum high in most areas is 2.5 meters. Unfixed males need at least 3 meters in most places as well. In places where large amounts of space is available for Petalia, such as Russia, the Ukraine, America, Canada, and China, walls of barbed wire are used as a cheap alternative. Most Petalia will often respect a normal suburban type fencing however, ambitious Prussia, France, Russia or Romano breeds may hop the fence.

**Chaining**:

Controversial in some countries, chaining remains popular in most of the world. While some believe it is cruel or may make Petalia aggressive, the chain requires no fencing and is the cheapest option. Chaining can be done on the wrist, neck or from a harness. Bare chain should never lay on a Petalia's flesh.

**Leash: **

In most urban areas Petalia must be leashed at all times unless they are attached to a cart. Leashes can be connected to a collar or harness for control. It is recommended Petalia be kept on no more than a 2 meter long leash. Most training Petalia are kept on a 1 meter or less leash. Leashes should be made from leather not nylon as Petalia can panic and throw their weight around. Leather will break in an emergency while nylon will not.

Always let your Petalia explore its new home. A pup or young Petalia may huddle to one spot or hide at first. Older Petalia will search and sniff out food and water sources. Do not introduce new and existing Petalia right away in the same enclosure. The original Petalia may get territorial. Try and introduce them on neutral grounds. Keep males and females separate unless they are a bonded pair.

Its best to not overwhelm a new Petalia. Let them get the feel of their new home before giving toys or playing. Be sure to clean up after your Petalia every day. Usually a Petalia will urinate several times but only defecate once a day. It is wise to bed the shelter with shaving, pellets, dirt, or other type of animal safe bedding.

Giving a Petalia a blanket is also a wise choice. Many play or turn it into a base for their nest. Pillows, old sheets, and clothing are also given to Petalia by their owners. The materials are used to make the nest or provide warmth.

Pregnant, nursing and bonded mates need more room than a single Petalia. Make sure to have enough space before breeding. Pups need about .3 of a meter more space added to the min. space requirement of its mother until childhood. Then the Petalia needs at least half the space of an adult.

Always allow a Petalia outside. These animals are very livestock like and enjoy their time outdoors. Some Petalia will develop vices if left confined. Walks are a great way for urban living Petalia to get out and about.

As a warning some breeds do not take well to being in cages or on a chain. Prussia, Russia, Belarus, China, America, Spain, Egypt, and Romano breeds are known to get extremely agitated when caged or left on a chain.


	42. Petalia: Grooming

**Petalia: Grooming**

While depending on what variety and breed you have, grooming will always be an important part of caring for your pet. It should be done often and is a great way to bond with your new pet or strength trust. Grooming can be done by a professional, or in your bathroom. Show Petalia are usually groomed on a table slightly raised up so owners can reach and groom them with ease. Petalia normally groom by licking themselves or others and by rolling in water sources.

**The Fur**: While Petalia always sport groin fur, certain varieties have fur tuffs on the chest, elbows, armpits, belly, and paws. This fur is unlike most animal fur in that it is usually extremely silky and produces little dander. While breeds like the Egypt will have very short fine fur that requires almost no brushing but some bathing, a breed like a France or Greece will need almost daily brushing because its fur is longer or may curl. It is wise to use a soft brush daily and a comb to work out knots. Be extra careful around breeds that have webbed paws like the Japan, the fine fur that grows between the toes can dreadlock and the flesh is extra sensitive. Some groomers will clip off the hair between the toes to avoid the webbing getting hurt.

Fur should be clipped and trimmed according to the shape of the animal's body. Hair should not be cut below breed length of hair. For example, a France is a medium length of hair, so the fur should not be cut short nor allowed to get too long. Detanglers are often used to prevent dreadlocks without over brushing. If you notice your pets fur getting bald patches, its being over brushed. Bathing will help clean fur but it is important to dry and comb it right away to avoid knots.

**The Hair**: The hair is located on the head and sparsely over the body. Hair is different from the "fur". Hair on a Petalia takes a long time to grow and will stay rooted longer. The hair on the body is very thin and not very noticeable. The head hair requires almost daily brushing besides the Tibet which usually grows little hair. The Hair should be gently combed or brushed and washed at least twice a week. Hair patterns vary from breed to breed and may dictate how you should comb and cut it. A classic example is the Germany breed. The males hair grows straight back and evenly. Natural sideburns need to be maintained and the hair trimmed back up the neck. Females however have a fringe which should never be cut straight across. The back of the neck hair should be trimmed in a neat square style. Follow the natural flow of your pets hair.

**Skin**: Unlike most animals, the Petalia has a lot of bare flesh exposed to the elements. Wild Petalia generally have thicker skin and fat layers. Flesh is also darker in the wild than in captivity. For a pet, it is wise to use lotion occasionally in rough areas or if you live in the cold or high winds to avoid cracking or burns.

**Nails**: While the hands are almost "bear" like, the nails start just as human nails do, on the top of each digit. The difference lies in that your Petalia's nail runs deep down into the digit and comes to a point similar to a bear or dogs. The Petalia has shallow quick and most of the nail can be neatly trimmed and filed back. Nails sport different colors based on genes and can be grey, black, white or clear. Darker colored nails are difficult to see the quick line on so be careful. Trimming should be done once every few weeks. Working with a file between trimmings will make life easier. If showing, round the tips of the nails. There is a polish you can use for shows to make the nails shine and resist any dirt which may get on them.

**Bathing**: While it's ok to bathe your pet daily, once a week is generally acceptable. Petalia will self groom by licking at themselves. Wild Petalia will roll in rivers and streams occasionally to clean themselves off. Soaps with fragrances are not a good idea as Petalia seem to have allergies to them. Plain soap is best fragmented with natural products if your pet must smell nice. Pups require more bathing than adults, as do the elderly. Bathing can be done with a hose or in a tub, but generally room temperature water or warmer is recommended. Bathing should always be done after breeding your Petalia. Be sure to clean off their genitals well. After a bath it's a good idea to towel dry or walk your pet in the sun. In the winter, do not put a wet Petalia outside as it will catch a chill.


	43. Petalia: Health and Disease

**Petalia Health and Diseases**:

Although usually very healthy animals, like every living thing, it suffers from health problems and aliments. Owners should be aware of signs of illness and when to call a vet. While all Petalia will have a bout of diarrhea or catch a cold, there are certain illnesses that need to be watched out for. Petalia can catch most human disease, but humans can not catch illnesses form Petalia unless it is a human origin illness.

**Petalia Influenz**a- This is just like the human flu but can only affect Petalia. New strains effect the Petalia everyday however it is not recommend you vaccinate healthy adults. Pups at risk or the elderly Petalia are only recommended to receive a shot. The Petalia will sweat, run a fever, be stiff or ache, a runny nose, headache, cough and may vomit or have diarrhea.

**Tetanus**- All Petalia should have a tetanus shot. The bacteria which causes tetanus affects the nervous system and tightens the muscles. Also known as "lockjaw". It is a serious illness that may also cause heart failure. Petalia will become extremely stiff and immobile.

**Rabies**- Petalia are very vulnerable to rabies as they hunt and eat almost all animals. While Petalia will avoid animals which appear to be sick, in winter hungry Petalia can be driven to eat infected meat or will fight with infected animals. Petalia will become achy, lethargic, confusion, anxiety, sweating, irritability, insomnia and trouble swallowing. Rabies is almost always fatal. It is recommended you get your pet vaccinated.

**West Nile Virus**- Spread by mosquitoes, this virus is usually not deadly to Petalia but can make them very ill. The virus causes vomiting, aches, rash, swollen glands, fever, and stiffness. More serious cases involve stupor, confusion, coma, convulsions, tremors, paralysis, vision loss, muscle weakness, and numbness. There is no vaccine. At risk Petalia should be protected by a repellant.

**Smallpox**- Similar to human smallpox, Petalia version results in large swollen rash along the skin. Petalia can die from smallpox but most are not vaccinated against it.

**Petalia AIDS** – Petalia can suffer from HIV and AIDS just as humans and it is believed that Petalia strains originated from humans. While your pet must be tested some possible warning signs are rapid weight loss, fever, coughing, night sweats, fatigue, swollen lymph, prolonged diarrhea, pale spots in the mouth, dark blotches under the skin, and low mental capacity due to fatigue. For Petalia, there is no cure. Sexually abused Petalia are at high risk of infection. Illegal fighters are prone to infection from being injected with dirty needles. Petalia with the virus should not breed or give blood. For safety, wash a studs penis after he has bred. Petalia AIDS cannot infect humans but a Petalia with Human AIDS can spread the virus.

**Hepatitis**- Petalia can be infected with both A, B, and C forms of the virus. The liver will inflame and the Petalia will show discomfort. A is acute and will not last long term. The B version may be chronic if infected early and the C version can be both chronic or acute. It can pass from birthing, blood contact, needles, sores, sex, fecal matter and fluids. Symptoms include fever, unusual colored feces, vomiting, loss of appetite, dark urine, abdominal pain, yellowing of the skin, joint pain and fatigue.

**Petalia STDs**- While a wide array of STDs occur in Petalia they are rare in the wild. Usually, abused captive Petalia have STDs or Petalia on large breeding farms which get infected with an outbreak. Most include sores on the genitals and discharge. Pain and swelling may also occur. Call a vet right away to avoid spreading the STD.

**Petalia Spongiform Prio**- PSP is a prion virus that affects the brain and is fatal in all cases. The prion is a "rogue" protein which attacks healthy brain tissue and creates holes in the brain. PSP symptoms include dizziness, falling, stumbling, thrashing, confusion, coma, vomiting, fever, aggression, seizures and eventually death.

**Petalia Polio**- polio in the Petalia is usually life threatening if in the wild. Fever, fatigue, vomiting, stiffness and pain is usually the common form. Rare cases result in paralysis. Polio has a vaccine but few Petalia receive it. Mill born Petalia are usually plagued with polio.

**Hip Dysplasia**- This does not happen in all Petalia but large breeds are more prone to it. Germany breed is number one in hip dysplasia because of its slightly sloped back. As a result the stud book has changed the standard to promote an uphill build with little slope. Russia, Sweden, Denmark and America breeds all suffer from the disease in high numbers. Surgery can correct the problem but it is costly. Mill Petalia usually get the disease as responsible breeders will not breed animals which do not past OFA testing for hips. Signs include stiffness, slow walking, low energy, pain in the hip area and a popping of the joint.

**Blindness-** Blindness effects older Petalia but some Petalia are born blind. Blind Petalia in the wild usually do not live long. Some types of blindness can be corrected but most of the time it is permanent. Prussia, Iceland, Russia and America breeds all have high numbers of blindness.

**Choric Hallucination Syndrome**- this affects only certain breeds. America, England, Japan, China, and Russia are known to suffer from it. The condition is normally able to be controlled without medication. The Petalia sees things which aren't there. As a result it may become vocal, skittish or snap at the air. In general, CHS is not deadly, not dangerous, and some owners never realize their pet has it.

**Bleeders Syndrome**- An illness with human equivalent, the blood will not clot and as a result a small cut can mean a bleeding to death. European breeds are known to suffer from this and some medications can help. In general, these Petalia must be watched carefully. Breeders are advised to never breed a Petalia with BS.

**Lameness**- Caused my many different things, Lameness refers to a limp, irregular, or painful walk. Lameness can be temporary or permanent. Competition Petalia often suffer from lameness by concussion injuries to ligaments and joints. Most lameness can be treated and fixed but some things will remain forever. Make sure your pet is sound before purchase. The most common form of Lameness happens in arthritis in older Petalia. A good diet, exercise and protective gear can prevent the condition from happening.

**Health:**

Petalia live long lives of usually 30-50 years. Well cared for Petalia ca live well into their 70's and 80's. Wild Petalia have a shorter life span then domestic one however wild Petalia are documented as becoming ill less often. Too keep your kept healthy a good diet, proper bathing, vaccines, and clean fresh water all must be provided.

Regular vet visits and blood work should be done. Your vet will know if your pet lives in an at risk area for certain illness. Over vaccination has become a problem in recent years. While Rabies and Tetanus are required by most towns, it is advised that vaccines like the flu be left for those Petalia at the greatest risk. A good diet is key to good health. Wild Petalia are often prime specimens because they eat wild fruits, vegetables and game. Rarely do wild Petalia have a chance to pass on genetic illness but as humans we must try to think of the future generations of Petalia. Do not breed your pet if he or she has a genetic disorder. Instead, focus on making their lives happy and healthy.

Although your pet may suffer from an illness that doesn't mean it can't raise a pup. Even those who should not breed are perfect for raising pups orphaned by accidents or death. Both males and females can raise pups and its shown to increase your pets life by up to a decade. The will to have pups is strong and while a Petalia may never breed, it can still get the joys of parenthood.

Exercise is important. Always make sure your pet can have a run and play. Competition Petalia receive training which can be very strenuous. Petalia should have time to recover from hard exercise. Depending on the sport Petalia may play, additional exercise should be done to keep fit. In general you should have your Petalia increase its heart rate via exercise for at least 45 minutes every day. Breeds such as the Germany, Russia or other high energy breeds could need hours of exercise. It may be a good investment to buy a treadmill or hot walker to help with its exercise. Swimming is also an excellent exercise for a Petalia. If you have a pool, allow your pet to swim to burn off some energy. It is also great for older Petalia.


	44. Petalia: Buying

**Petalia Buying**:

Deciding to get a Petalia is one of the most life changing decisions one can make. A lifelong commitment Petalia may even outlive their owner. Getting one should not be done on a whim or spur of the moment. They require a lot of care and time. So where should you go to buy or adopt a new Petalia? What are the pros and cons of each? Do you have what a Petalia needs?

**Before you get a Petalia**:

There is a long checklist of things you should make sure you have before getting your new pet. Consider space. All Petalia need a place to run and play. In cities, parks can provide a Petalia area for them to run off leash in. A yard should be well fenced and locked. Most experts recommend that a Petalia have at least a half to one acre per animal. Of course, most people do not have that space, so it must be made up for in walks or exercise.

In addition to space is money requirements. A small breed can cost as little as 20 usd a month to feed. But initially, supplies for a new Petalia can cost well over 1,000 usd. Large breeds can consume up to 100 or more usd a month. If you don't have the money to feed and care for one, do not buy.

Petalia can eat up to 33% of its body weight in food per day. While money is a factor, feeding time is also hard for new owners. Petalia tend to eat themselves sick, especially ones from the wild. Small portions of food fed throughout the day is recommended. Many new owners invest in an automatic feeder for when they are at work. The feeder will drop a few ounces of food every hour or so.

Petalia also go to the bathroom a lot. Water consumption is high in most breeds besides Africa, India, Egypt, China, and Japan breeds. Frequent urinaters, they need access to an outdoor area to relief themselves in. In cities where there is no yard, Petalia can be trained to go into a litter box.

Some breeds are high energy and require heavy workloads to keep them happy. Germany, Russia, Prussia, America, Denmark, and Ukraine are all breeds which need hours of work or they become pent up. If you cannot give your Petalia a working task consider getting lower energy breeds such as an England, Spain, Canada or Japan. Elderly Petalia are great for those with little time to play but even in old age breeds like the Prussia, Germany and Russia will want to get up and work or play.

Always consider having your pets fixed. Sometimes, city or community restrictions may mean no unfixed pets are allowed. Also check for breed restrictions as "Dangerous" breeds may be forbidden in cities or communities. Fixing your pet will mean less hassle when it comes to mating seasons and illuminate the risk for certain cancers. Home owners insurances will also drop if a male Petalia is fixed. Because of the price of females, they aren't usually kept as pets but are generally exempt from restrictions.

Now that you know some of the basic requirements, it's time to consider where to get your Petalia.

**Breeder:** A good breeders job is to improve the breed and promote the set standard of the registry. Pups should all have at least a three generation pedigree and be eligible for registry. Some breeders may restrict your pups ability within the registry which lowers the cost of the pup. This includes a request that the pup be fixed if it is less that superb quality. Breeders also often guarantee their animals health. Registered Petalia can compete in breed shows and are in great demand for breeding.

Breeders will only have one litter per year in general if not one every few years. Sometimes older Petalia are available through the breeder as well. You can view the litter once its born and choose a pup. It's a long wait for a pup to be weaned. Generally 8 months at least. Breeders allow you to come and play with your pup and bond prior to it being weaned. Look at several breeders before choosing one. Get references and look at some Petalia others have form the breeder. Those who breed purely for "rare" genes or mutations should be avoided as the goal of making a superior animal isn't the first goal.

**Shelter**: Many Petalia are homeless and put into shelters or surrendered. Some are taken from abusive situations. Currently, shelters in America, Canada, Russia, and Europe are overwhelmed. The "Petalia Boom" which refers to the point where Petalia became mainstream pets are now suffering because of their owners lack of understanding. Many were abandoned or surrendered. No kill shelters will keep all Petalia deemed fit for adoption. However with an estimated 30 million Petalia in America in shelters, more are kill shelters. Unfortunately, kill shelters don't give much time and males or mutts go first to be destroyed.

While adopting can be a cheap and great way to get a pet you must understand that these Petalia may come with some inherit problems. Some may have medical problems or have fear to humans. As an incentive, many shelters offer free vet care, insurance, and a starter kit. Places where the Petalia shelter population is high may also offer tax breaks to those that adopt.

All ages of Petalia can be seen in shelters. Mothers, elderly, and adults are often not adopted and are at the greatest risk. Pups get taken right away as well as young animals. By law, a mother must have her pups at least eight months before they are weaned, so mothers usually have more time.

All Petalia are fixed when coming from the shelter regardless of age. All of them have their shots and a health certificate which enables the new owners to travel with their pet. Since shelters have such high kill volumes every pet adopted out means more government funds. Your adoption fee is tax deductable so the cost of your new pet is almost free. Many shelters will also pre-approve you and have a computer database so when a type Petalia you are looking for comes in, they can notify potential adopters.

**Private Owners**: Some people can't keep their pets any longer and don't want to risk them at the shelter. Local newspaper ads or internet ads can be a great way to find a high quality animal for less money. Beware though, many private owners may be getting rid of a sick animal or one that is lame from injury. Always get a vet check and write up a contract to protect yourself.

**Trainers**: Sometimes trainers will buy good potential competition Petalia then sell them once they are trained. Petalia usually are sold as either prospects [those that still need training but are suited to a certain discipline] or trained animals which means you can compete immediately. Some trainers may breed occasionally from their own owned stock. Trains can also help you in choosing a suitable animal for your needs.

**Breed Rescues**: Generally more money than shelters, breed rescues gather and focus on only 1 or 2 breeds of Petalia. These rescues often go miles to pull good potential pets from shelters. Because the animals receive more one on one attention in general, breed rescues can tell you more about the animal's personality. For peace of mind, breed rescues are a great choice if you can afford them. Some of them can be written off in taxes so the cost of your pet may be covered.

**Ranches**: Massive ranches that raise Petalia for working purposes are dotted throughout the U.S and Canada. These places are for experienced Petalia handlers. These animals have been left out a major of their lives with little handling, roaming open land. They are then brought in for training when old enough and sold. The United states of America and the other Americas hold the large number of these ranches. Most of them breed only the America or Canada breed. Ranches generally break a Petalia to a leash and only train the best of the herd. Prices can vary from dirt cheap to thousands of dollars.

**Auctions:** A place only for the most experienced handlers, Petalia auctions are a risky business. With only a few moments to analyze the Petalia, it's a buyer beware business. Many go through sick, lame or with vices. Some however are emergency sales or ranch dispersals which can be a good deal. Auctions often offer no guarantee on an animal. Although low end auctions are common, there are high end auctions for elite or prospect athletes which must pass a vet exam. These Petalia can go for millions of dollars and are from only the finest breeding. Racing Petalia are often the highest priced.

**Mills:** Largely banned, most mills run illegally and produce massive amounts of Petalia to sell in pet stores. Mills are not recommend and many pups carry illness with them into the pet stores. Mills are not concerned with improving the breed or breeding for a long lasting pet but only money. The operations largely sell to pet or slaughter houses where Petalia are butchered for meat. The Illegal mills rake in an estimated 850 million dollars on pet store sales alone in the U.S. While some pet stores have refused to buy mill bred pups a vast majority still buy from the mills.

**Slaughter Wagons: **Before trailers leave to deliver Petalia to the slaughter houses, many drivers are permitted to sell some should someone ask. Experienced trainers or handlers can often get a Petalia cheap from the slaughter wagon. Most of these animals come with no pedigree, training, and often have vices or are lame. These are the Petalia ranches, auctions, or mills could not sell or were unsuitable to sell as pets. Almost all of these animals need some kind of work and are not recommended as a first time Petalia.

**State Studs: **Only state licensed trainers and breeders can buy from state run studs. The studs usually are home to the best of the best, government funded breeding programs which aid in either military work or Olympic competition. State studs are also where breeds were founded. The best known stud farms are in Germany, particularly the Bavarian stud which is often given credit for the Germany breed. State stud Petalia are superior in quality and usually registered not only in their breed but with their government. These animals can cost millions of dollars.

**Pet stores**: Most pet stores have a supply of Petalia pup ready for you to take home. However it is always wise to ask where the store obtained the pups. Some adopted them from kill shelters or get them from breeders. Many however buy them cheap from mills and sell the pups fast. Pet stores generally do not offer a guarantee or services if your new pet gets sick. Impulse buyers often pluck the plump little pups from their pens and buy on a whim, only to be devastated when it falls ill. Most pet store puppies are able to be registered.

**Buying Procedure**:

While many are bought from stores or from shelters, all sales or exchanges of Petalia follow certain rules. Knowing them can avoid fines with your state, county, or town.

Also get a vet examine from a vet not associated with the seller. They will check for soundness of the animal, health, and any behavioral problems. You should receive a health certificate which also displays all vaccines and the date they were given in the last year. Usually the only shots required by law are rabies and tetanus however it is up to you if you want to vaccinate your pet against other illness.

After you obtain a health certificate and vet clearance, you may apply to the registry to change ownership. The former owner or shelter will sign off on papers and within a few weeks new papers should arrive via the mail.

Most towns require your pet be registered in a local database in case of loss or theft. Bring a photo of your new pet and they will take your name and phone number. Be sure to update this information if anything changes. Your pet will receive a tag which will save it from going to a shelter should it get lost and state that the pet is vaccinated. This information is also send to the tax collector so that you can receive a tax break if you are entitled.

Depending on the rules of the sale contract, you can have a trial period. This is time to get to know your pet and see if it is a good fit. Trial periods usually last from 7 days to 30 days. If your pet is not a match contact the former owner or shelter as quick as possible. If it is, you will need to finalize the sale and sign sale papers.

Congratulations! You've bought your Petalia.


	45. Petalia: Vices

**Vices**: Not all Petalia are angels and some develop vices in their lifetime which are hard to correct. The most common vices are talked of here but Petalia can acquire an array of troubling habits. If you fear your pet is suffering, have him or her analyzed by a vet.

**Balking**: This is known as a "working" vice. When the Petalia is meant to be working these vices appear, but otherwise the Petalia acts normal. Balking is a general term for refusing to move forward. Each Petalia has its reasons for balking, from mistrusting the handler, to prior cruelty, or pain. Some Petalia rest back and dig in their heels, others will travel sideways or try to turn around, some dead stop mid work. While it's a strong debate as to how to cure the problem, the most obvious attempts are to first make sure the animal isn't in pain and if fitted with any equipment that is fitted comfortably and correctly. Abused Petalia will often Balk out and fight working. Turning them in a circle and getting them to move forward that way is good for mild balking. Some handles endorse whipping at its rump or back, or giving it a swift crack with a leather paddle used to discipline Petalia. Sometimes, tying or hitching another Petalia to the balking one can encourage them on. The "unfixable" balkers are often fitted with a balking strap, a leather pulley system from the neck to the back knees. Fitted in the back are harsh metal wedges, should the Petalia fight the pressure, the wedges dig into the back of the knee joint and force it to collapse, making the Petalia move or fall.

**Biting**: Like a dog bite, Petalia bites are taken seriously. Petalia have at least four strong canines with some males sporting two extra "wolf" teeth. Petalia teeth are far larger and shaper than a human. Pups should be discouraged from nipping. Biting should be scolded or dealt with by a professional if regular techniques do not work. Muzzling protects others from the Petalia but does not solve the problem. A Petalia that severely bites a human can easily be ordered euthanized by local officials.

**Bolting**: When a Petalia runs off on its own, with or without its handler. This is very dangerous in drafters or carriage Petalia. Bolting can be because the Petalia is afraid, in pain, abused, or is unwilling to work and runs off. Bolting need consistent control. A strong headpiece is needed. Never pull directly back on a bolting Petalia as it will throw its weight forward to defy. Instead, turn one of your reins, leash or which over control you have tightly to one side to make it turn. Make sure they don't have a lot of rein. This sudden sharp turn forces them to stop. Circle them a few times. If a Petalia is a panic bolter, soothe it and assure it that everything is fine. If its bolting from pain, try to identify the source. Bolts that are just running off should be worked in a circle for a few minutes at a faster pace until their energy drops a little.

**Bucking:** Petalia will kick up their hind legs a lot in play. This is normal and expected. Bucking becomes a vice when they do so during work. Drafters that buck can damage the cart or themselves. Carriage and taxi Petalia as well can cause similar problems. In show or any sport, if a Petalia bucks it is penalized, except in jumping.

**Chewing:** All Petalia will chew at one point in their life. Wild Petalia will continue to chew and nibble at things like bark, trees, and branches. In captivity, Petalia may chew wires, furniture, clothing, or shoes. It's a natural impulse that is usually taught out of Petalia when they are pups. Discourage chewing by scolding, spraying objects with a bitter taste, or putting a stick pad on it so the Petalia cannot chew. Instead, provide a Petalia with a special chew toy and praise them for chewing that toy.

**Cribbing**: Because of the way the throat anatomy is in a Petalia, which is more similar to livestock animals than small animals or humans, they have to ability to "crib". The Petalia bites down on a hard surface and leans back slightly with an arched neck. Their ribs will flare and a loud noise will echo from their throat. The reasons for cribbing are numerous in theory, from boredom, to endorphin release, to the production of extra saliva. A change in diet and a "cribbing collar" can help stop the habit. Wind sucking is also a vice related to cribbing without the use of an object to bite on.

**Digging**: Digging is natural to a Petalia and it is a vital skill they use to maintain their dens and nests. However some Petalia simply will dig their owners yards into oblivion. "digger" breeds include the Prussia, Germany, Russia, Canada, and America. Known for liking large and deep dens. Make sure your pet has a nest to play and burrow in inside and that it has an outside area it can dig in, such as a sandbox, a small mound a dirt, leaves, or even old blankets or clothing. Anything to let it play in. Some Petalia just can't help themselves and may dig out. A run will keep them safe in the yard if you cannot watch them. Try a vibration collar and turn it on when the Petalia digs at the grass or garden. Digging could be from boredom, so make sure it has plenty to do while outside such as toys, food, obstacles or anything else they enjoy.

**Flipping**: a vice of carriage, drafting or working Petalia. Pain, abuse or unwilling to work, which ever the case the Petalia wants out. These Petalia have figured out if they rear up and fall back, they will most likely crush whatever they are pulling and break free. "Flippers" need to wear a special extra harness which keeps their neck tied to the back ankle, preventing rearing up and over.

**Freezing:** Freezing up is usually a fear response but can occur at dangerous times. If a petalia si spooked while running, it can freeze up and loose the race. being paralyzed by fear is not uncommon in some breeds. The often flee after a moment of freezing. Water freezing is dangerous as well. The cause is unknown when in water but breeds such as a the Japan can suddenly stiffen and appear afraid and dip under the water. Encourage the petalia, pet it, soothe it and convince it that everything is ok. Beating a frightened petalia will not help. If your petalia tends to freeze during competition, arrive early to get it settled and comfortable.

**Growling:** Some Petalia are vocal by nature but some just seem to growl at everything. Growlers are in general unhappy and if pain is not the cause there is little that can be done. Try to make the Petalia happy and willing. Give it good care and affection. Some Petalia are "soured" and will never stop growling. Most growlers are not aggressive but are slightly more prone to snapping at passersby. Growlers should wear muzzles as a precaution.

**Hoarding**: Petalia are hoarders by nature as far as food is concerned, saving massive amounts for future use. Hoarding in a Petalia sense is not like human hoarding, as Petalia cannot keep as much and usually do so because they are using the objects. Some Petalia however hoard things they like. Coins, shoes, belts, pillows, toys, paper goods, pencils, anything they like can go missing and be in a secret stockpile for later play. The only thing to do is make sure the objects the Petalia hoards, are simply not available.

**Howling:** Custom of wild Petalia or Petalia in heat or on their own, howls are a way of calling out for others. Unlike dog howling which is social, Petalia do not howl in groups except when pups as play. Adults howl as a means of communication only. Lonely Petalia will howl for their owners, friends, or for any other Petalia to come along. Howling can be bothersome. If your Petalia is lonely, let it spend some time with you at night or sleep in the same room. If this isn't possible, consider getting it a friend. Some owners will scold or use a shock collar to control this habit.

**Humping**: A vice which can occur in all Petalia, fixed or not, male or female. Humping is generally a dominant and sexual act. Males will hump other males to show dominance over them. Particularly after a fight. Females tend to do so more as a display of sexual need or stimulation. Humping your leg is not only annoying, but messy as the scent glands in the groin will leak and leave behind a scent mark and some dampness. Young Petalia my hump as a form of play but this phases out as they grow older. Determine the cause of your pets humping. Is it because its showing dominance? This means the Petalia doesn't respect you and that is the root cause. Sexually pent up Petalia may need to breed. If breeding is not possible, invest in one of the discreet dummies available that are designed to help your Petalia release its frustration but safely, cleanly, and without destroying your furniture. Discourage humping of the legs or arms with a tap to the noise or command the Petalia to sit.

**Jumping**: Jumping up on people should be discouraged, although some owners enjoy their Petalia jumping up to lick at them. Do not give praise when jumping and gently push the Petalia back down. Petalia soon learn there is no gain in jumping and stop.

**Kicking**: A Petalia the kicks out is dangerous. By law, kickers must have a red ribbon on the or around the waist as warning. Kickers sometimes kick because they are in pain. More often, another Petalia is too close and it's their way of saying "back off". Sometimes it's an aggressive habit and they want to kick someone out of frustration or anger. Try to find out why the Petalia is kicking and fix the situation. Have it wear its ribbon at all times. Harnesses are made to discourage kicking. Professionals can also handle a Petalia and work out its kicking problems.

**Marking**: This is a natural behavior and is hard to curb in Petalia that do it excessively without fixing them. Males are prone to this behavior and there are two kinds of marking. Scent gland and urine. Urine marking is easy to clean up and generally used by both sexes to mark out "their" things, such as a den spot. Scent glanding is done usually only by unaltered Petalia. Males have large scent glands behind the testicles on either side of the pelvic region. He will spray a little of his scent on things he wants to leave his information on. The edge of his territory, his things, food places, and even to attract females. Females have the same however they are build into the glands found near her genitals. Generally females only mark in heat if there are no males around immediately. Discipline a Petalia for marking indoors. Make sure the scent is completely gone from the object. If you have a stud male who cannot be curbed, try a scent glad guard which fits over the very tiny pores and prevents them from marking. Be sure to take guards off when outdoors. Regular scent is vital or the glands may get inflamed.

**Masturbating**: Because of their anatomy Petalia generally cannot masturbate as easily as a human. Often times they mount things instead. However, masturbation is slightly different in Petalia. Females will rut against objects but males will pin their erection and rut into it. Public masturbation can be far more embarrassing to the owner than the Petalia. Make sure they aren't frustrated. Keep them active and if you see your Petalia getting sexually excited, keep them moving if in a public place.

**Mutilation:** Rare, it is generally a male problem. Unfixed males get pent up, aggressive and will begins to bite or scratch at themselves. Mills are known for having "teaser" males which never get a chance to breed but are subject to all the scents of females and males. Teasers are also used on ranches. The Petalia go mad with frustration and can severely injure themselves. Make sure your Petalia is getting plenty of exercise. If you do not want to breed, fix them. Let them release some sexual frustration and make sure to take them plenty of new and interesting places. Unlike people, Petalia do not generally mutilate from mental or emotional aliments.

**Nipping**: Some Petalia think it is ok to nibble at people or things. Swift discipline needs taking to avoid nipping turning into biting. Pups nip more than adults in general, and nipping is a form of communication in the Petalia world. Avoid feeding Petalia a lot of treats by hand, so they avoid getting mouthy with fingers.

**Rearing**: Rearing up is a dangerous vice. On twos, a large breed can met the eyes or tower over a man. The front paws become weapons, their weight crushing, and can use their teeth and skulls in addition to their massive strength. Usually Petalia rear in fear or in aggression. Fearful Petalia will back up as they rear, trying to make themselves appear big, but will probably run off after. Fearful Petalia need assurance and to stay with whatever is frightening them until they realize its ok. Aggressive rearing is done when a Petalia is refusing something. If a harness or girth is too tight less tolerable Petalia will rear and kick. Make sure your animal isn't rearing out of pain. Some do it to refuse work, these Petalia need to be taught that no matter how much they act up, they will still have to do their work. Sometimes a Petalia will stand on twos if its excited or if males meet each other in competition to show off.


	46. Petalia: Growth

**Petalia Growth**

Many people have spend hours researching the different growth stages of the Petalia. Although they appear to mature faster as infants, once a little old it is comparable to humans. Petalia's growth rates are also effected by nutrition, genetics, breed, work load, and health.

**Newborn:**

The stage just after birth. Petalia are helpless for the first few weeks of life. The mother will bite off the cord and lick the newborn clean. Occasionally, this work is split between the parents should the male be around. In this stage it is vital that the Petalia nurse within an hour or two, as irreplaceable colostrums are available. Large litters may run into a problem where there is not enough of this to go around. Experienced mothers will ration nurse so each baby gets some, but if the litter is large with an inexperienced mother, some pups may die from infection or illness. After the first nursing they will have a second meal of milk which will provide all they need. The newborns cannot open their eyes for every long, have very little fur and can weakly crawl to the mother. At this point their weight is mostly organs and most of that is digestive system.

Newborn pups are at risk of many dangers. Pups cannot regulate their body temperature very well, but are more tolerant of temperature changes as far as recovery. This is the primary reasons females rarely leave the rest, as they must constantly feed, groom, warm, and clean the soiled litter. This newborn stage only lasts the first 24 hours of life.

**Infant:**

This is the stage where the animal will grow most. Pups weight at this stage between .3-2kg. depending on breed and litter size. Pups are only 12-15cm long regardless of the breed. A few days after birth, the fur will grow in. Fur may be lighter as a pup, than when it is mature. Eye color as well may be compensated. After a few weeks the pups can open their eyes for extended periods of time. Their crawling has become better and often can drag themselves to their mother for feeding. Infants with ear modifications may have bend or folded ears however this will go away as the pup grows. Pups with tail modifications may have very short tails but they will grow out with age as well. The pups will more than triple in size and begin to make noises.

During this time the mother spends most of her time in the nest nursing and cleaning the pups. Depending on litter size, this can take a toll on the mother and other litter mates. They begin to be taught about Petalia behavior, how to speak Petalia, and their motor skills increase. The Infant stage is not ended like in humans by age but rather by milestones. Infants cannot walk but only crawl and drag themselves.

**Toddler:**

This stage happens when the pup can stand up and "toddle" around. The pup will be clumsy at first and expect it to fall often. The pups begin to play and teeth come in. They can speak Petalia fairly well and begin a massive amount of learning. Most breeders will sell toddlers to their new families at this stage, however there is a push to extend the age of sale. Naturally, the toddler will continue to nurse and start eating solid foods. When sold, families rarely keep them on a proper diet of Petalia milk. The pups will drink about .5kg of milk per day which is taxing on the mother for large litters.

Toddler pup will begin to explore their world but stay close to their mother. They are very venerable to predators as well. Pups learn all about socialization, behavior, skills, etc. in this stage and will practice them often.

**Puphood: **This is where the Petalia really start to show their abilities. This stage lasts until puberty. The pups will look awkward and little clumsy at time. If it has ears or a tail they will begin to grow into them. While many take pups as toddlers, more people are taking in Puphood age Petalia. These Petalia stop depending on their mother's milk, but if a new litter is born may still try to drink from their mother. Pups can communicate well in Petalia and are strong enough to begin training. Pups require a diet high in calcium, fat, and proteins. This is usually when Petalia are fixed since they are old enough to recover well and resilient enough to be put under.

**Teenaged: **Like humans, Petalia have a long maturation process. Young Petalia begin to sexually mature. It is wise to have your Petalia fixed before this stage or after sexual maturity as hormone fluxes could interfere with growth. Because the Petalia grows so tall, it may appear out of proportion. Sexual behaviors will start, particularly with males. Females may buck or rut but are generally agreeable. Males however are much more of a handful. Males will mount furniture, people, fences, siblings, and pillows. Both sexes will begin to mark with urine but males more so. Certmain breeds are known to be very troublesome at this point. Running off in search of females, urinating, mounting, leaving furniture soiled, chewing, and howling are very often seen. Fixing your pet will avoid these problems. France, Greece, South Italy, Prussia, Russia, Germany, Denmark, America and Rome breeds are known to be very difficult in this stage.

**Adult: **The stage that lasts the longest, adult Petalia can breed and are independent. While some may leave their parents as Teens, some may wait until adulthood or until they find a mate. Females stay with the family unit longer than males. Germany breeds are known for keeping the offspring around longer than usual. Males leave sooner in search of mates. Once adults and on their own, they may wander in search of a territory. When a mate is established, males will patrol and protect their female. While a powerful male may take several females for his own, he will only bond to a single and may gain or lose other females.

Physical matured, Petalia will start the next generation. Some may have only 1 pup in their life time, others can have up to thousands. Most of the adult's life revolves around breeding and making pups.

As adults life in the competition world is in its prime. While there are competitions for young animals, most shows are for adults. Petalia are "worth" more with titles under their belt so many owners compete to see if their pets can win. Serious competitors will train for years. Able to bare great loads and work long hours, a working Petalia is priceless form of labor to farmers and ranchers. Petalia can live as long as a human can and sometimes outlive their owners.

**Elderly: **While in the wild it is rare to see an older Petalia, in captivity it is a common sight. For females, it is considered elderly when she stops going into heat. Males, when they hit age 60. While Petalia are very graceful agers, sporting little wrinkles or age spots, they may roan slightly on the hair. The hair and fur may become thinner as well. It is harder to keep muscle and weight on an elderly Petalia. Every decade almost five percent of its muscle mass is lost once hitting again 40. Shoulder joints are a huge problem in old age and often have arthritis or some kind of bone degeneration. Spines sometimes sway and the wrists often are susceptible to breaking. Most older Petalia enjoy laying around the home and desire to go out less and less.

When its time for a Petalia to die in the wild it will do one of two things. If it has a family around, it will rest and die among them. If it was nomadic, like many Prussia breeds, it will find a comfortable place to die. In captivity, many want to be with their owners in a comfortable spot.


	47. Petalia: Anatomy

**note:** warning large genitals ahead. Also this is mostly technical stuff, the next chapters deal with your pets breeding and fun stuff ;D**  
**

**Petalia Anatomy:**

When it comes to this animal it is truly a feat of selective breeding. Compared to the Domestic Canine, one Petalia can look very different from another. Strains, experiments, gene engineering and selective breeding have all made this animal vary. Each Petalia has the same basic structure and then what are all "Modifications". These can be what make it different such as having a tail or not.

**Basic anatomy**:

When I comes to the Petalia as a whole, the body is very human like. The features of the face are exactly the same as is the layout of the body. The most noticeable difference is the shoulders, feet, hands, hips, thigh, ankle, calf, teeth and spine. Male Petalia are referred to as "Bulls" and a breeding male a "Stud Bull". A female however is called after the dog name, "Bitch" and when she is a breeding female she is simply referred to as a "Brood".

The shoulder is very slightly tilted and flexible. While appearing human like, part of the shoulder blade often is more upright, pointing out rather than gliding along the back. This makes the collar bones narrower but helps with the shoulder joint and absorbing impact.

The feet are very paw like in the back while in the front more bear like with a thumb that is slowly becoming less and less useable. Depending on the variation there may or may not be fur on the paws. On the underside the animal will have pads which can be black, brown, peach, or pink. Some spotting may occur on the pads.

The hips and rump are were the animal differs most from humans. It's animal qualities have made it able to exist on all fours. The rump is rounder and comes down to form animal like hip and rump. The thigh is angled and the shin is positioned back just as in canines. The "ankle" is now a hock. The joints are much larger in Petalia then in people.

The spine is very different in Petalia than people. It is much more flexible and much thicker. The spine should be angled higher to the shoulder and lower to the rump, or as it's called an "uphill" build. This is the desired spine of the animal. There should be no dip in the spine from hip to wither. Spines which are even from wither to hip are considered acceptable. When a Petalia's withers are lower than the hip, or "downhill" build, it is considered a fault and it's much harder for the animal to move. Shoulder problems and deterioration are very common in those animals.

The reproductive system is also different in Petalia. While females look on the outside the same as a human would, the except of soft fur instead of hair, the inside is extremely different. Females have a long uterus which when fully stretched will be from a few inches from the vaginal opening all the way to the diaphragm. Unlike most animals, the female will have her cervix penetrated during intercourse.

Males are notably different on the outside. The testicle are much larger and able to produce almost 2 liters of sperm in large breeds. The penis is human like however it has a sheath which it tucks into. The penis is rather large, enough to fill the tract of most females. The semen of the male will thicken after a few minutes and become a jelly which will seal off the female. The tip of the males penis will swell large and they will be anchored together for a short period of time while he ejaculates. Never try and separate two Petalia during mating as you could cause serious damage to the female's reproductive tract.

It should be noted that although females have larger milk stores, both males and females can give milk. Females do not have breasts as human females do. Instead the breasts only fill with milk when pups are ready to be born and until they are weaned. Males only give a few ounces at a time and cannot enlarge breast tissue to meet demand of a large litter. Females only have two nipples to feed their pups with, so larger litters mean constant rotation. Males often will help but don't often supply enough milk to satisfy larger pups.

Lastly, the teeth are much different. The mouth is larger and deeper than a humans. Many experts argue over which teeth the Petalia resemble more as they have the teeth shape of many animals. The Petalia has canines which are larger on males than females. Some say the sharp back teeth indicate canine jaws, but the thick sharp front "canines" are more gorilla like. The flat back molars next to the sharp ones are human like as are the front flat teeth.

**Modifications**:

Modifying factors of the Petalia are similar to how a dog may have different coat types in a breed. Some Petalia have them and others do not. This means that Petalia have a wide array from looking almost human to having more animal characteristics. While more animal like Petalia are at an advantage in the wild, humanlike Petalia are the poster child for social movements in law.

**Ears**: While all Petalia have ears, the type of ear is dictated by one of the modification genes. The Gene is dominant and will express itself with both Homozygous or Heterozygous dominance. Modified ears usually are erect standing ears similar to spitz type or shepherd. The ears of a modified Petalia are almost 50 times greater at hearing than normal. Some ears my flop from soft cartilage but this is uncommon. Ear genes do not dictate tail genes and a Petalia can have ears without a tail.

**Fur**: the presence of fur on all Petalia originates in the groin. All Petalia have a soft fur in their groin area. The "fur" genes is rather extend where the fur grows and it is hard to pinpoint a specific gene or genes involved. Pups are bred to either have more or less fur based on their parents expression of the gene. Fur can be along the flanks, on the paws, down the center of the belly, the chest, armpits, elbows, and lower leg or arm. Fur can be short, medium or longer in length with straight, wavy, or curled profiles. Color is not dictated by the fur gene or genes. Some Petalia express no fur genes, others very little, and still more heavily furred. Males have a tendency to grow thicker and more fur.

**Tail:** Tails are another dominant gene in Petalia. The growth of the spine extends an extra twelve vertebrae and thin muscles and tendons wrap around them. The tails are furred but usually at least medium to long in length. The tail is very vulnerable to dread locks. While the tail is not needed, it is often used during swimming and to express themselves better. The tail is sometimes docked for working, hunting, or fighting Petalia to avoid injury to it and eliminate the disadvantage of it. Tails are docked either on the 1st vertebrae, for fights, or 2nd for working and hunting. There are only two types of tails in the Petalia world. The long variety which is the most common and the stunted variety which is found in some mutts or ill-bred purebreds. The stunted tail usually is also an indicator of a shorter than average Petalia.

**Coloration and Patterns**:

There are a wide array of colors the Petalia comes in and the patterns add to a complexity rivaled only by other domesticated animals such as dogs, horses, cats, and cattle. While basic colors exist, small variations and dominance of genes can make a herd of Germany's all look completely different.

**Base colors**: These are the colors that can occur in all Petalia. Base colors can be modified or added too with genes. Some registries only permit certain colors to ensure pure breeding.

**Chestnut**: Also known as "sorrel", or in some cases regarded as "brown" this gene is regarded as "eeee" genotype. All the "e" color genes are recessive and make for a very light brown to red hair.

**Brown**: Also known as "false black", in most animals brown is marked as a separate gene but in Petalia there is none. Brown occurs when there is a dominate gene on the chestnut. Brown occurs as "EEee". Most registries that accept brown will also accept chestnut and red hair or fur.

**Black**: also known as "true black". This is when all the chestnut genes are dominant and occur as "EEEE". True blacks will have black fur or hair and are resistant to bleaching of the sun. Registries that require black fur or hair usually do not permit chestnut or Brown.

**Color Modifiers**: These are genes which tell the base colors in which way to distribute the coloration or dilute the color.

**Agouti:** Agouti is symbolized as "AAaa" or "AAAA". Agouti must be dominant to show its presence. Agouti only acts on the Black gene "EEee" or "EEEE". It restricts the black fur only to the legs, head and tail. The rest of the fur or body hair is brown or chestnut.

**Red Agouti**: One of the few Human coloring genes in the Petalia that is not lent from livestock or other domestic animals. Red Agouti is strongly found in England, America, Canada, Wales, Ireland and Scotland Breeds. Red agouti is not an agouti gene but occurs on the counter shading codes. The underside of the animal has red fur while the top side has normal fur. It can act on any color pattern, so a blonde or black furred animal can still have red. This is just the same as a human having red facial hair with different color head hair.

**Crème Dilutions**: Crème genes are written as "DC". A petalia can have up to 2 copies of the crème gene. Crème dilutes color and creates the other colors that are so common in Petalia. Petalia breeds who call for blonde Petalia also accept cream coloring. Cream resembles most closesly to platinum blonde as does Perlino. Smokey colorations pale or ashen the coat.

Blonde: "eeee" "DCdc"

Cream: "eeee" "DCDC"

Perlino: "EEee" "AAaa"/ "AAAA" "DCdc" / "DCDC"

Smokey Black: "EEEE"/ "EEee" "DCdc"

Smokey Crème: "EEEE" / "EEee" "DCDC"

**Red**: While in most animals "red" is often referred to a recessive black gene, the red coloring in Petalia follows the human standard a slight mutation on specific genes. The color modifies any previous color. So a Petalia that genetically show black hair can still express red in its place. Based on the existing genes effects the brightness and darkness of the red expression. Crème genes create a red-blonde while browns will make for a very dark rich red.

**Grey**: The grey gene acts and masks all other color genes. "GGgg" or "GGGG" will make the Petalia turn a dark steel grey that will lighten out to white as it ages. Old grey Petalia are often mistaken for white.

**White**: Another masking gene. A Petalia with the white gene will have all its other color genes over written and it will be born a pure white. White Petalia are rare and the gene code is "WWww" or "WWWW". Unlike in other animals, dominant white is not lethal.

**Albino**: A gene mutation which only acts if all other genes are recessive and the albino gene is present. Albino gene "pppp". This gene rids the animal of most pigment in the hair and eyes. The flesh becomes pink. Albinos suffer from secondary health problems. The Prussia breed is famous for this gene but Germany, America, Egypt, African and Iceland breeds all have been documented as having Albinos. It is possible in other breeds as well but the chances are similar based on documented cases.

**Silver**: The silver dilution doesn't actually turn the Petalia "silver" but is almost a reverse agouti. It prevents color from being on the head hair and tail, making the Petalia have a white head hair and tail fur instead of its natural color. Silver genes only express on Petalia with a black gene. It is written as "DZdz" or "DZDZ".

**Patterns**: Patterns are usually not as common in Petalia as in other animals but they do exist. More common patterns are usually subtle and can be seen on the skin and fur.

**Dapple**: A dappled pattern that shows up as a few shades darker. This pattern is seen in many Blondes, grays, reds, agoutis, and browns. Dapples never fade on the Petalia and on the skin there is a lit outline of where the darker pattern is. All registries accept dapples and many strong Germany lines pass down vivid dapple patterns.

**Dun**: Genes which help with camouflage, dun markings are a series of small stripes going horizontally on the legs at the joint and a dark stripe down the center. Dun markings can affect any color. The gene is written as "DDdd" or "DDDD".

**Roan**: Written as "MRmr" or "MRMR" the roan marking is a flecking of white hairs. Extreme roans are affected and tinted lighter colors while some just have a cluster of roaning at the flanks. Roan does effect head hair as well. Roan can affect all other dilutions as well or patterns. The gene is not common in Asian breeds but is common in America breed. All registries will accept Roan, with the exception of the Germany Breed.

**Brindle**: This gene is extremely difficult to find and only naturally present in European breed or mixes of them. The brindle gene hasn't been isolated in Petalia but can affect any coat color.

**Bend Or**: Random flecked spots of while on the coat. They can only be white and the gene for Bend Or spots has not been isolated. They are most common in Italian and England breed. No breed rejects Bend Or spots.

**Spotted**: Spotted Petalia come in almost every conceivable combination and have many different names for patterns. Spotted Petalia are common in mutts and African breeds. The America breed is sometimes seen with spots.

**Pinto**: Large colored markings over a white body. This is rare and usually only in mutts. It is also seen in some Slavic breeds of Petalia. Recently there have been trends in the Americas and Canada to get more pinto genes. Most European registries reject Pinto.

**Calico**: Rare genes that only act on females and generally only seen in mutts. Several genes are responsible for this pattern. Breed registries will not accept Calico. Calico is only expressed in fur and not hair. Mostly it is a mixing of black and chestnut patches.

**Mosaic:** Only two documented cases of mosaic Petalia exist, both of these cases were in the Iceland breed. The gene has little research done on it. It is a chestnut or red base fur with large distorted black markings on top of it. Mosaic is considered the rarest coloration in the world.

**Coat Types**: There aren't many types of coat in the Petalia and most follow the same pattern. Breed registries only accept the norm. Owners should avoid trimming the hair too short, especially for showing or competition. Hair length does not necessarily indicate coat length.

**Standard**: This is a length between medium and short that most Petalia fall into. Standard fur length is seen in almost every breed of European descent.

**Short**: Seen in the Egypt, African breeds, Cuba, and some individuals of the Asian breeds, the short coat is usually an indicator of a Petalia that lives with the heat.

**Medium**: Seen in Slavic and France breeds, the medium length coat is often the most difficult to trim without going too short. Fur must be longer than 3cm but no longer than 5cm.

**Long**: The long fur breeds much have a majority of their fur over 5cm in both spring and winter coats. The Hungary is an example of a long furred breed. The Russia is also an example of a long furred breed with short hair.

**Straight**: The fur is a normal straight coat which lays flat. It is written as "cccc".

**Wavy:** Common in France, Hungary, and Belarus. The hair as a wave to it. It is written as "CCcc" and is only heterozygous.

**Curly:** While very rarely is a Petalia extremely curly like a human hair, it is possible to have tighter more curled waves. This is seen in any breed in which wavy hair is accepted but it is not a desired trait in European breeds as it easily dread locks. African breeds almost always have curly genes and in those cases it is required and desired. It is written as "CCCC"

**Metallic**: This is a gene that hollows out filament in the hair. It creates a very shiny almost metal like shine to the coat. It is a rare gene found only in the Egypt, Russia, Ukraine, Turkey and Mongolia. The Gene is highly desired and was once believed to be a spiritual blessing of good luck. This gene effects all hair and fur.

**Hairless**: A mutation that is linked across several genes. These Petalia do not survive past a few weeks. Hairless Petalia often have an unusually grey-black skin and die from problems with internal organs. This mutation is known to effect the Egypt, Turkey and Mongolia.

**Skin**: While skin color is not normally very regulated, there does exist four skin colors in the Petalia. Some breed registries will reject certain skin colors as proof of non-pure ancestry. The skin of a Petalia is thicker than human skin and generally very dense. The hides make for good leather. Skin is most sensitive on the belly, ears and tail.

**Pink**: This skin exists only in the Albino. It is extremely sensitive to sunlight and burning. Pink skin is only accepted in the Prussia.

**White**: Pale flesh that is the norm for European and some Asian breeds. The skin should have a healthy glow and may have a blush. This color is known to be more sensitive to burning. The Germany breed is known to sun burn easily as is the Ireland.

**Cream**: While cream usually gives an image of white or pale, in Petalia lingo, cream skin is what most Asian breeds have. It it's a slight tone darker than White hide but can range to looking almost olive in tone. Cream skin has different genetic marker and is highly resistant to aging. Cream is not accepted in any breeds but Asian or Asian crosses.

**Olive**: A deeper skin tone that is one of the most desired. Some European breeds are permitted to have it. It is common in the Italian breeds as well. Egypt, Turkey and Spain breeds should have olive skin.

**Black**: The strongest skin, it is common in African breeds and some Egyptian lines. It resists sunburn, has even tones but it is often thinner making for a sensitive to the touch Petalia. Because of the Albino gene, some strong strains of dark skin can suddenly reproduce pink skin.

**Eyes**: While the eyes maintain a human shape the inner works of the eye are much more efficient in darkness and rarely suffer from the same issues as the human eye. Colors are often standardized in breeds as a way to show purity, since passing down eye genes is less predictable than color genes, as the eye pigment can express multiple tones and mixes of color.

**Brown**: Brown eyes or "BBbb" "BBBB" eyes occur in most every Asian breed. Brown is considered the healthy eye color with shades varying from light to dark. Brown eyes dominant all other eye colors except mutations or modifiers.

**Black**: Rare and considered a mutation, Petalia with black iris's may have difficulty seeing as many of them have also inherited other mutations of the eye. If the Petalia is without those other mutations, black iris's pose no threat. It is known to occur in some Asian breeds, African breeds, and mixed breeds such as America.

**Blue**: The recessive gene for eyes "bbbb", the blue gene is easy to overwrite and can be rid of in 1 breeding. There for many registries regard the eyes as proof of out breeding. Blue eyes however suffer from slightly more damage over a lifetime than brown. Gray eyes are also classified as blue in the Petalia world as gray occurs based on the placement of proteins and their density, making it more a phenotype.

**Green**: in Petalia, green is a modifier "GRGRgrgr" or "GRGRGRGR" mix in green pigment. If the green is dominant the pigment is flooded with green, while heterozygous genes are only slightly mixed. Green modifies the existing color of the eyes. Blue eyes will turn from blue green to the purest green. Hetro brown will become light yellow or hazel and homo brown will become a dark hazel or gold.

**Violet**: Rare eyes found usually in the Russia breed. Violet requires two mutations on a blue gene. The first being a non-albino red mutation, and the second being a the "lilac" mutation which allows the colors to blend evenly. This is why some Russia breeds express blue eyes or a redder violet.

**Red Non-Albino**: Red is a naturally occurring mutation which is usually linked with albinism. However the gene can occur separately. It is a mutation and will overwrite any existing genes. So even a Petalia with brown eyes that has 2 copies of the Red gene will express red eyes.

White Eyes: Rare mutation that often causes blindness. A mix of no pigmenting genes and a mutation in the filler of the protein. The eyes pale the Petalia is usually blind within puphood. Blindness ranges from total loss of vision to a Petalia able to only see shadows of the world around them.

**Gaits**: The gait is the movement of the Petalia. Most Petalia have 4 gaits besides the Iceland who has six gaits. It is important to evaluate each gait when buying your pet to see if there is any discomfort, lameness, stiffness, or hesitance to move. Head bobbing, hip hitching, paw dragging, and short stepping are all signs of lameness or poor gaits.

**Walk**: clear, four beat gait, the Petalia should move freely with each paw reaching the same distance. The walk varies from breed to breed, from slow a lumbering for heavy breeds, to fast paced with little should movement for lighter breeds.

**Trot**: Two beat gait where opposite paw lift simultaneously. The spine should be swinging and shift with the hips, the legs springy and the paws should not drag.

**Lope**: A three beat gait. The Petalia will lead with one paw or the other. If going in a circle the paw to the inside of the circle should be leading.

Run: A four beat gait, this varies from breed to breed. While most run normally, breeds like the Egypt, Italy, and Prussia all have double suspension runs. This makes them faster than other breeds.

**Iceland Pace**: The fastest of its gaits, the Iceland pace is two beat. Paws on both sides should lift at the same time. This Petalia can reach speeds equal to the Egypt in its pace but only for less than 300 meters, as it is a difficult gait to keep rhythm in.

**Iceland Tolt**: The animal slightly drops its rear end, brining the back paw underneath it. The front paws are lifted high in the air. It should look as if the animal is trotting on its back paws but performing a high steeping walk in front. The front wrists wing outwards while the back paws should travel straight. This is a clear 4 beat gait, 2 beats or uneven gaits are considered faulty.

**Extras:** Sometimes Petalia express genes that are specific to a purpose. These "extra" genes are not always mandatory in breed registries but in some more desired.

**Webbed paws:** Webbed paws are typical of breeds that are Island based and have extensive use in water. Some members of the China breed exhibit this trait but only certain known bloodlines. The best webbed paws are homozygous dominant, heterozygous can lead to shorter webbing in paw. Webbing is usually not noticeable when the Petalia walks around and only when they spread with paws to swim.

"**Cat Spine":** a term which refers to a specifically long, slightly upward at the coup spine with hyper flexed joints. While several genes go into making a "cat spine", certain registries use this as a way to prove purity. "Cat spine" animals are usually light breeds like the Italy, Asian breeds, and England breed. This spine allows for maximum flexibility and the Petalia are very agile. This spine has lead to problems in crossbreeds however, as Drafting breeds with shorter thicker spines that cross often have a spine lacking proper support for its size. The result is a painful swayback. Instead, crosses of drafting breeds to lighter breeds should only take place with heavy breeds which are smaller in size.


	48. Petalia: Breeding

**Note-  
**I do not own hetalia. Sorry its been so long I haven't been in the US/school/etc. ANYWAY. Here is the most anticipated chapter, sexy time for petalia! Also, special invite on the bottom of the page for fans of RPing.

**oooooooooooooooooooooo  
**

**Petalia Breeding:**

Petalia have a different approach to breeding which is both animalistic and humanized. The differences are discussed in the following segments.

** Mates:** Since male Petalia out number female Petalia in birthrate there are generally more males to one female in an area per generation. This means the process of finding a mate becomes complicated. There is usually only four types of mates when it comes to the Petalia social order. Bonded mates, Nomadic mates, shared mates and male mates.

**Bonded Mates**: breed for life and maintain a strong emotional connection to each other. Sex is not only reproductive for Petalia but social bonding. Male Petalia are usually the ones that seek out females. A male can meet several females, even breed them, but not bond to them. The same goes for females. Both Petalia must have a mutual bond or one will eventually leave in search of another mate. Bonded mates will breed for life. Almost all breeds of Petalia will try to have a bonded mate, with the exception of Prussia breeds which rarely bond. The couple will produce litters as long as their reproductive life, which can span almost four decades. The loss of a mate is divesting and often the Petalia will not breed again. Germany breeds are especially sensitive to mate loss and in studies of both wild and zoo kept, the living survivor often dies soon after if there are no pups to care for.

**Nomadic Mates**: are females who do not stick with a herd or single male but roam around with the seasons. Males will breed her as she passes by and she will settle when ready to give birth. Once the pups are able to keep up she will begin again and soon become pregnant. These nomadic females are common in places where Petalia have been hunted into smaller numbers. These females often have a litter where all the pups could have different fathers. This method allows a wide variety of genetic material to be dispersed over a wider range of land.

**Shared Mates:** are more complex. This is a herd of Petalia made up of both males and females who are not related to each other. The alpha always has the right to breed any female he wishes, but often times allows other males to breed as well. Males will share a single female and the litter will be of mixed sires. This technique is often seen with young males who alone are not strong enough or experienced enough to have a female. So the group has an alpha and all pitch in to care for her and the pups. Females may join these groups for security in dangerous or harsh environments. Should two Petalia bond they will often break off in a separate herd where little to no shared breeding will take place. This is not to be mistaken for Bonded Herds which is a herd of Petalia and their mates with no shared breeding occurring.

**Oooooooooo**

Petalia are not all year fertile. Females and males both have cycles of hormones which dictate bringing times and the birthing of Petalia in the wild and in domestic life. Males and females however are different in how their hormones affect them. Knowing the differences can almost guarantee a pregnancy in healthy breeding sound animals.

**Female Cycles**: Unlike humans that are fertile every month, female Petalia only come into heat every season. Usually the middle of the season is when Petalia go into heat. The Petalia's heats are different strengths during different times because of the preference of birthing time. Spring is the strongest heat, then summer, fall and lastly winter. Pups are born eleven months after conception so a female will come into heat again about one month after birthing her litter. Where the Petalia lives also dictates heat cycles. Far Northern or Southern dwelling Petalia tend to have more dramatic heat changes, from being barely receptive in winter to out of control in spring. Petalia closer to the equator have less dramatic changes in cycles and tend to be more regular in cycling.

**Male Cycles:** While males do not have a "heat" period there is a time of year where unfixed males will go into a period called, "musk". Named for the strong odor males smell of during this time, "musk" is very dangerous for the handler and competition. This period lasts about 5 days during the spring and is dictated by environmental factors. In harsh climates such as Russia, a males musk may not happen until later or ideal food, water, warmth, and sunlight. Musk does not always fall during a time where females may be in heat. Owners of unfixed males should take caution or better yet board their Petalia in a facility set up to handle males during musk. Males become violent if trying to be controlled, will attack other males, hunt out females and usually ignore all commands.

You can tell a male is in musk by the odor, but also excessive marking. Dilated pupils, roaring, restlessness, sweating, aggression, constant state of sexual arousal, and hard breeding to females are all signs of musk as well. Never attempt to physically block or control a male during musk, they will lash out. Males that are normally docile as kittens can become deadly. During this period a male will seek out and breed to as many females as possible. If bonded, the male will breed to his female or herd constantly until his musk ends. Once musk is over males spend about a week sleeping and eating to regain their health.

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**Sexuality**: Petalia are noted to not always be wooed by females. In fact, major universities pour thousands of dollars into purchasing Petalia which they can study because of their sexuality. The goal is to try and figure out some things about human behavior, but most of these studies fail to see much correlation. Now Petalia are viewed much more as a separate animal in this field.

**Heterosexuality**: The average breeding pair will stick with each other for life unless they find a fault in which raises pups will be too difficult. This is the most common form of mates seen and most males spend a majority of their lives finding and care for females. Breeds like the France may have several partners, but both genders may mate with others. Survivalist geared Petalia like the Russia often will be opportunistic, meaning even if they have a bonded mate, they will breed to another female if available in attempt to have more pups. While Germany breeds are known for their excellent parenting and high rate of pups surviving to adulthood, they rarely breed outside their bonded mate. Think about what type of male your pet is, what category would he best fall into? Consider that before breeding.

**Homosexuality: **Common in the Petalia world. Homosexual practices should not be considered abnormal, as almost every Petalia male has had some experience breeding to another male. In young years of adulthood, males will mount each other get release sexual frustration. Some bond to another male and continue breeding with them. Females rarely are seen in this practice, believed to be influenced by strong hormonal changes, even females that despise males may seek out one to breed and have pups. Never punish your pet for such practices. Studies show that Petalia have an acute sense of their mates and even what seems like rough breeding is within the mate's limit. Do not pull two males apart as you can seriously injure the mounted male. Altering your Petalia has no effect on its sexuality. Females can often be seen mounting each other but it is still unwise to pull them apart, as the agile females can turn and bite or strike at you.

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**Age and Maturity:**

While it is best to plan to breed your Petalia in the spring when they will naturally want to breed, captive Petalia can breed any time without worry of environmental effects. There are other factors in breeding which must be accounted for before mating takes places. Primarily the age of the Petalia.

**Male Ages**: Males can breed from puberty to death so long as they remain healthy. While males can hit puberty as young as ten years of age, most begin at thirteen. This however is not an ideal age for males to breed and in the wild, most Petalia males wouldn't breed for the first time until they are over twenty years of age. Young males under twenty have low sperm count, lack of proper mixing of semen, low sugar content of semen and their scent is weak which does not attract females. Females are more attracted to a male with a stronger healthy scent which usually gets powerful around age twenty and continues until age forty where it will very slowly drop in strength as the male does. Scent tells if the male is healthy, has a strong immune system, has eaten well, has good working muscles, and based on scent undertones, what kind of mate he will be. Males who go around trying to find random females and don't stay to raise pups have some scents that are triggered by a higher immune system. Males that are calm, emit a different odor lacking in adrenaline or strong hormones. Fatherly Petalia will give off a slight scent of female hormone as they are more likely to produce milk. Until the male is old enough to attract females on his own, breeding should not occur in a pasture setting.

Prime breeding age for a male is from twenty five to thirty five. The larger the breed the longer it takes for him to mature to full size. Germany and Russia males are known to not fill out until thirty while smaller males like the Italy breeds will mature at twenty five. Young growing males are at high risk of death. As the pups grow up and become sexually mature, male offspring will leave in search of their own life. Within the first year away from the herd almost half the males will die. Within five years only about thirty percent of males will live to find a mate in the wild. The highest rate of death is among Prussia and Russia breeds because of their strong will and courage, they often take risks. The best survival rate of males to adulthood is the Italy breeds, Japan, and England as these breeds will flee from danger and take no risks and are more conservative with their willingness to risk their lives.

For captive males or your pet, you should not breed before sixteen. Twenty is a good starting point as he will have a good show record and begin to compete in adult events. Breeds will have studs which range in age from very young to very old, but most agree that males tend to be best around thirty years old.

**Female Ages:** Females are different as far as age. With only a limited window of years to birth, there is an urgency for them to breed in the wild. Females will usually begin puberty at twelve but some as young as nine. The father and mother of the female will protect her from breeding until a suitable mate comes along. Usually it's the father who will test the suitor in a fight and trial him to see how he treats his daughter. Upon approval the female leaves with the male. Generally from age sixteen to eighteen in the wild. In barren areas some females leave as young as fourteen. Females can only bare pups from puberty to about fifty years of age.

In captivity most females will not have their first litter until age eighteen. Mills are notorious for breeding females as soon as possible making for a stunted mother and small pups with a higher rate of defects. Most breeders will advise no birthing before age sixteen as the female needs a chance to grow and fill out. The rate of birth defects drop almost ninety percent after age seventeen. Because a captive female has an owner to care for her needs, birthing every year isn't as much of a problem so long as they are mentally stable and willing to have another litter.

**Ooooooooooo**

**Courting**: Almost every breeding is done after a courting period. It can be short or long depending on the female and the breed. Courting rituals vary but almost all involve the male proving he is strong, stable, and able to pass down good genes and be a good mate. Courting begins when a male finds a female. Sniffing, showing off, strutting, marking, and warding off contenders are commonly seen.

While rituals vary around the world and from individuals the most common practices involving fighting, running, and providing food. Do not disturb a courting ritual! Your Petalia may bite and strike out if it feels you are challenging it. Both fixed and unfixed males will court females. Fixed males with a bonded mate will breed for social purposes rather than making pups.

**Oooooooooo**

**The Act of Breeding**: While very similar to over livestock and animals, Petalia will breed after a successful courting. Males will lick at a female and try to excite her. Once both partners are ready the male will mount. This is a critical point where the age of the female plays a role. The male will bare almost all his weight on her spine and hips. Females that are too young will not be able to support the male and fall. Since Males can be anywhere from one quarter to twice the size of a female in build and weight, it should be taken into consideration the amount of force the female is under.

Once the male penetrates, he will continue breeding for a anywhere from a few minutes to over half an hour in a comfortable setting. If a virgin, the female's hymen in Petalia is rather thick and tough. If you know your pet has not bred before do not be alarmed if she bleeds rather large amounts of blood. This is normal. Unlike some animals, it is vital to fertilization for the female to orgasm. The technical term for it, is peaking. Once a female peaks her cervix dilates and the male will push past it. The head of the penis will swell and anchor them together for a few moments. While the male ejaculates, and if he has a tail, the tail will pump with his contractions. The testicles clench toward the body. A large male can deposit almost 2 liters of semen. His goal is to flood her entire tract.

Once they disconnect the male will groom his mate. Nipping at her opening to make her clench and not push out any semen. After about thirty minutes a seminal plug will form that blocks any fluids from leaving or entering the female unless penetrated again. Mates can breed several times a day, if not constantly, in a heat or musk period. Males may become viciously protective after breeding and do not like to be separated. Larger breeds are more dangerous when they decide to hoard a female from their master, as they can do far more damage. It's best to let your pets take their time.

**Rape:** On rare occasions it does occur. The most common form of rape is male to female. Raping is generally a sign of extremely difficult times and is more common in harsh environments where there is a gross overpopulation of males. Males are desperate for pups so they will force breed a female in order to get a chance to have a litter. Should the victim have a mate, the partner usually seeks out vengeance on the rapist.

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**Breeding Strategies**: There are many ways to breed your Petalia and even methods of getting a litter that is more valuable. The following are the most practiced.

**Pasture Breeding:** This is where the Petalia are let into a large open pasture, usually guarded by tall walls or electric fencing. One male is turned out with a female or a female herd. Pasture bred Petalia are more relaxed and the male will court each one when they are ready. Sometimes the male will bond with a one female and cause problems. While some males will continue to breed and do their "job", others stop breeding to other females. Handlers have noted that when a female is born in a pasture breeding setting, they are more likely to not have a problem with their mate breeding other females for reproductive purposes. There is no exact way to tell when a female conceives, so often pups are born in the fields. Pasture bred females may be very herd bound, not wanting to leave the other females or the protection of the male.

**In-Hand Breeding**: This is when a stud is lead to a female and bred. The most common case of breeding in the industry. A stud can breed several times a day but these studs are often kept to themselves and never allowed to stay with the female afterwards. Some breeders may require your female be hobbled and tied to avoid her kicking or harming the stud. However this almost means your pet is unable to move or be courted. It is best to have a pet that trusts you as they will seek out their owner for aftercare in lieu of the male. Both Petalia need washing and encouragement afterwards.

**AI**: Artifical Insemination is gaining popularity. It is a great tool in breeding and has allowed males to bond to females and never have to breed to strange female again. It also reduces the risk of all STDs severely. Males are taught to mount a dummy and encouraged to do so from a young age. Semen is collected, put in viles, and chilled or frozen for shipment. It is possible to have your litter be born from a male half way across the world. Some registries however do not permit AI. The racing and Italy breed registries do not accept AI and only accept in-hand or pasture breeding as proof that the male listed on the papers fathered the litter, as DNA testing is expensive. This also encourages local breeding stock to improve on its own, rather than relying on only a select few studs known internationally. It also prevents large scale inbreeding, a problem the racing industry has needed to deal with.

**Bonding Breeding**: If you are looking to only have 1 breeding pair, consider getting a female then letting her choose a mate which is in your preferred criteria and purchase him. Bonded mates produce less litters over a life time but the pups tend to be more mellow and easy to train because of both parents involvement in raising them. Bonding mates are used by show breeders who do not need to produce for profit but only occasionally.

**Mixed Litters**: While most litters in captivity only have one sire, some owners choose to expose their females to several males in hopes of getting a "mixed litter". This strategy is used by farms that usually only deal with Studs and do not have many females to brood. A large litter can have several fathers but there is no guarantee that all males will stake a claim to an egg. Once fertilized, the female's body changes and there is less chance of having other eggs fertilized. Mixed breeding is a fast process. Pups need to be DNA tested for registration. Mixed breeding can and does occur in the wild and is usually practiced by bands of feral young males.

**Crossbreeding**: Sometimes, crossbreeding is an intentional practice to get a better working animal. Mostly practiced, purposefully, in Europe and Slavic countries to make working Petalia of better health and size. Crossbreeding is a delicate operation. Some breeds just will not breed with any male that looks too unlike her own or appear too not prefer males of different types. Like how a Germany female may reject a Sealand male simply because he is not big enough to be "strong". Also, consider the goal in crossbreeding. Most goals set are for a better athlete or worker. Mixing heavy breeds can give a wide genetic variation for health, and also add more muscle. Athletic types are often crosses of lighter or medium breeds with heavier breeds for a balance of strength, speed, agility, and movement.

Crossbreeding also has a huge mental health side too it. Ukraine x Russia mixes are often regarded as the world's best workers. Docile, powerful, massive, and obedient it is almost a breed in its own right. However, Russia x Belarus crosses, though very similar in breed, produce a Petalia that is aggressive, driven, powerful, and challenging. Think very carefully about the two breeds you will mix. Are their personalities complementary? Are the breeds driven to work? Hunt? Race? Which is your goal? Mixing a hunting Petalia with a flock guardian isn't a good idea. Just as mixing a drafting Petalia and a racing Petalia is probably not the best idea either. Avoid breeding "Cat spined" Petalia with drafts. If you want to breed something like a Germany to an Italy, find a Italy without "Cat spine" or a smaller Germany.

**Hybriding**: On the black market, Petalia are used to create Hybrids. Human Petalia hybrids are usually sold as meat or for prostitution. Some are the result of Petalia abuse on strays and these Hybrids are feral. No laws exist for hybrids and they are grouped with Petalia for now for legal ease. Hybriding is not Illegal everywhere but in some cases it is legal to own one. Contradicting laws mean that even rescues that take in Hybrids may be doing so illegally. It is not recommended to Hybrid Petalia and humans. Several join problems and mental illness are known to plague them. Unable to control their animal side but even more human geared than Petalia, they become hostile and dangerous. The UK as a Hybrid sanctuary where they are studied and allowed to live a very close to human like existence. If you find a Hybrid, report it to authorities or shelters.

**Line Breeding**: This practice involves some slight inbreeding in order to preserve specific traits without breeding direct blood. It can use grandsires or great-grandsires, as well as distant cousins. Line breeding can be no other option in some breeds. The Swedish breed has a small gene pool and often breeders practice this. Line breeding should be a temporary fix until fresh approved blood can be found, not a decade's long practice.

**Recipient Brooding:** This is when a breeder takes their prized female, breeders her, but removes the embryo and puts it in a "recipient" female. This practice allows the top quality female to continue competing or working all year and not risk injury during pregnancy or birthing. The recipient females are usually inexpensive mutts who have a history of being good mothers. The pups are born and raised by this other female, but genetically, they belong to the prized female.

**Oooooooooooo**

**Pregnancy:** Gestation for the Petalia lasts a long 11 months. Each stage of pregnancy affects the female differently and can compromise her work or showing. Males that remain for pregnancy or if you have a bonded pair will also be compromised.

The first weeks of pregnancy the females may become sensitive to touch, be quick to snap or bite, and also exhibit some minor flu like symptoms. The hormonal changes will compromise her immunity so keep your female away from strange petalia, from traveling long distances, or eating high risk foods like fish or shellfish.

The first half of the pregnancy is rather uneventful. Pups stay small and grow slowly. Females reproductive track stretches length wise as it makes room for the round fluid filled sacks the pups grow in. Pups grow in rows and a mother can accommodate three rows inside her safely. By the first month most of the pups can be counted although some may hard to detect. Over the course of the first half, the female can continue normal workloads. Her caloric needs increase only slightly, about 3% during this time.

The second "trimester" is where accommodations must be made. She will begin to show her belly and change her gate. Workloads should decrease to half and stress should be reduced. Petalia on military duty should take a leave with their masters or a handler. The pups can be seen better now. Their skeleton, organs, and skin are all growing rapidly. Movement will begin and pups can be felt through the mother. Increase her food rations at least one third. If she seems hungry for more or for a type of food, give it to her. Males in the wild go on long hunts to find what their mate is craving.

The last part of pregnancy is more grueling. Do not work your pregnant petalia at this stage. Take them for walks or gentle swims. The female becomes very slow and may be in pain. A single pup still can add almost 10kg in weight to her because of the amount of fluids in the womb. Large litters can add close to 50kg. Females will want to nest at this time. Profile raw materials for her to make a large den with. Males will build one for their mate. It is not unusual in the wild to never catch a glimpse of a male's mate while she is visibly pregnant and until the pups can toddle. Females can go through periods of binge eating then loss of appetite. This is a sign she will birth soon. Females cannot stop birthing, but can hold off for up to one or two days if they are in a dangerous situation. Never try and stop or hold off birthing. For every hour the pups stay in, the greater chance they are stillborn or will receive injury.

**Birthing:** Petalia birthing is swift. While the labor stage may last a day or more. When the pups are ready to be born it can take as little as five minutes per pup. The birth canal is much larger in proportion to pups than a human is to an infant. Birthing is not nearly as painful but incredibly uncomfortable. She will release several liters of liquid. Each pup is encased in anywhere from .3 to 1 liter of liquid which is popped during birth.

Once a pup is out, the mother or father will groom it and chew off the small umbilical cord. Pups are only about 9 to 15 cm in length at birth. Helpless, the parents will help it nestle against the flank of the mother for warmth. Once all the pups are out the female will pass some after birth. Most mothers will sleep for a few days. The male or master providing food and water as she rests. It is important you dispose of soiled bedding and afterbirth quickly.

Right after birth it is critical pups nurse for colostrums. Pups need only about 1/3 of an ounce to be properly protected. Mothers will let each pup nurse for a little and switch them out.

**Problems**: Some Breeding Problems may occur. In general, breeding in a natural, smooth process, requiring little help from humans. In some instances, besides refusal to breed and previously discussed issues, you need to aid the breeding. Old males sometimes lack the stamina, strength, and balance, but if they are a captive stud are often bred until death because in their prime they were ideal. In such cases, the male will usually lean on the female more than usual for support, the breeder holds the Petalia's hips together and assist in the balance to keep both from falling.

Sometimes a breeding is interrupted and the pair must disconnect quickly. If this happens while the male is flared, he can cause serious damage to the inside of the female. Some to the point of tearing the connective muscles and tendons. Never try and separate two Petalia breeding.

On occasion a male may be too big for the female. In draft and sport breeds, small females are often bred to the largest males to ensure pups have the best chance of inheriting proper size and stride. This can mean a female is put in an uncomfortable situation. The male too may have trouble breeding to a female too small. These bleedings are often more bloody due to the tears that can happen inside the female. Usually the stud to comfort her and ease her into breeding. This type of situation may mean hours of courting and preparation, never rush a stud that is obviously too big to breed to a small female.

Though birthing generally goes well, as does pregnancy, problems can still occur. Abortion in the first months is common if there is not enough food or too much stress. Females may be depressed after losing their pregnancy but so long as the loss was natural and not a forced act, the females tend to accept the loss better.

Stillborn pups are not uncommon in most breeds. Some pups just do not develop and die before birth. The umbilical corn collapses, protecting the mother and other pups from infection. These pups are born looking nothing like their siblings. In the wild, they are disposed of with the afterbirth, as it can also be hard to tell the difference. The other category is when a fully developed pup dies in birth or soon before. Inexperienced mothers may panic and try to nurse dead pups. In the wild this is an unfortunate thing that they must come to terms with. If you have a female that has a stillborn pup, try to remove it quickly. Attempt resuscitation but if you are not successful be sure not to introduce it back to the mother or let her see it.

Some pups are born fine but die after birth. This can be from trauma or infection. Most breeds expect one pup to die by the hand of mother nature. First time mothers take this hard as do fathers. German breed and Canada breed share a ritual of "not understanding". Sometimes hoarding dead pups and treating them as if they were alive. Eventually they must accept their pup's death and generally bury it.

Some pups get sick or the female will fall ill from her ordeal of birth. Never use antibiotics on a mother. If the litter is ill, a vet will recommend a dose of extra colostrums that are taken from donated sources. Mothers will receive natural supports to help her feel better. If they must go on an antibiotic, the mother must stop nursing the litter. Petalia do not react well to antibiotics and penicillin. Sometimes it comes down to choosing the lesser evil.

Common problems also include hernias. Pups often get them between the belly and pelvis region. At this age, a vet can easily fix this in a few minutes and if treated quickly is not a threat. In the wild the parents would push the hernia back and keep the pup immobile until their muscle walls got stronger, usually over a few weeks.

Never pull on an umbilical cord. The number one cause of preventable death of pups is when the parents or owners accidentally pull on the cord. This very easily can pull the intestine out of a pup! Just as in livestock, never pull, always cut the cord. If this happens get a vet immediately! In the wild this is almost a death sentence and very few pups will survive such an injury.

Some females will just not give milk. Some stimulants are available to make them nurse but these drugs are passed into pups. Have the pups nurse, even on a dry breast, to help encourage natural lactation. Feed the pups by bottle Petalia formula, or donated milk. Sometimes a lactating female can be leased as a wet nurse.

On occasion, females become overwhelmed, especially without a male to help. They can panic and spend more time in their frantic state than caring for their pups. Pacing, loss of weight, thin pups, and nervousness are signs. As if the female doesn't know what to do. Its best to bring in an experienced mother to calm and teach the new mother. If not, a male that is good with pups is suitable. If you cannot locate one, intervene and help care for them. Pet and be kind to your pet. Do not scold a mother for this. It will only make the situation worse.

**Oooooooooooo**

**Breeding tips:**

The environment you breed your Petalia in very important. Make sure it is in a familiar setting that is comfortable for your pets. If you are bringing your female to a stud, the breeder should have a comfortable natural setting for them too meet. Forced bred, chained up, or uncomfortable females will not be impregnated easily.

Let the female get to know the male. If you let them spend time together the breeding is generally much easier. Sometimes a female will reject a male and refuse a breeding. Other times the two become infatuated with each other. If you like the stud or brood, consider regularly breeding them.

Try not to impregnate a female immediately after birthing. Let her rest and raise her pups. The Fathers too can stop breeding in order to focus more resources on the current litter. Germany breed is known to stop breeding for this as is the China, England, Egypt, and Japan. Breeds not known to stop but have consecutive litters are the France, Russia, Ukraine, African Breeds, and Norway.

Above all it is most important to make sure your pet is healthy and you support them throughout the breeding process. If you own a male, reward him for good breeding. If you own a female, be sure to meet her needs and affection demands. If you own both, allow them to bond together enough to raise the litter if you want. Otherwise keep them comfortable and happy.

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**Special Note**- _are you into rping? Do you like to dabble in a bit of taboo subjects such as Communism, National Socialism, etc? If you aren't afraid of some heavy things, there is a part in **-desperate-** need of being taken over in an RP I am part of. It's a great little story but its quite out there and based off in part on **'Petalia'**. If you like the concept of Petalia and are **very open minded**, Send me a pm and if you feel you want to take over **the leading role**, let me know. You can also create additional, well formed, accurate characters of your own. However, without the Lead Role, the rp will die and thus, no point in inviting others, eh?** SO** if you feel you are cut out I will send you a brief summary. You don't have to be epic at rping but at least 1+paragraph posts. It done in real time on MSN._


	49. Petalia: Communication

_Due to request by reviews, there will be an additional part of the guidecalled "Documentary" which will be the portrayal of Petalia versions of popular/requested pairings. GerIta, UsUk, PruAusHun, have already been requested. Leave your request in a review and if there is support it will be added. Each Documentary will be different, for example the UsUk pairing may come from abused backgrounds while GerIta may be wild ones. This is to utilize the guide in most of the ways written._

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**Petalia Communication**:

Because the vocal chords of the Petalia are different but contain the same amount as humans, it has created odd speech patterns. The Petalia brain is capable of understanding human language on the same level as another human being, should they be raised around humans. Wild Petalia with no human contact must learn whatever language is being spoken to them. Petalia however cannot always speak back. The vocal chords make for rough and animalistic sounds. Petalia rarely use their tongues in making sound as well. There seems to be a split difference in the brain when it comes to speech. Body language, Petalia language, and Human language.

**Body Language**: Petalia often communicate with their body in lieu of talking. Expression can often eliminate the need for vocal communication. Many behave similar to livestock and domestic animals but some mannerisms are different. Some basic postures are tell tale signs or warnings.

**Aggression**: Ears up, back stiff, chest out, weight forward, tail up and erect, fur hackled, brows down and pinched, lips curled down, teeth bared.

**Warning/Go Away**: Teeth bared, brows frowned, lips curled down, sometimes accompanied by a growl.

**Dominant:** Tail up and may wag slowly, chest out, head high, brows up, ears forward.

**Agitated:** Tail swooshing, ears back, brows pinched, fur hackled.

**Fearful:** Tail tucked between legs, ears against skull, shaking, eyes wide, pupils dilated, head tucked between shoulders, spine arched, low to ground, nose flaring, brows up.

**Curious**: Ears up, head up, Tail relaxed or slowly wagging, nose twitching, brows up.

**Relaxed**: Ears flopped, brows even, tail relaxed and down,

**Happy:** Tail wagging, brows up, head up, ears forward, panting

**Submissive**: Tail down, ears relaxed, nose twitching, head down, may roll over to expose underside.

**In Heat**: Head up, tail up, panting, genitals swollen or winking, nose twitching, tail may swoosh or appear agitated, unable to stay still.

**Playful**: Tail up and wagging, ears up, brows up, panting, relaxed spine, open mouth.

**Sleepy**: Tail and ears town, eyes drooping, mouth closed, head low, may lay down.

Body language also extends to what the Petalia may be doing. Pacing, growling, baring teeth, short quick movements and chomping are all negative language indicating that something is wrong. When a Petalia is angry, its best to give it space if it seems dangerous. If it is your own pet, try to calm it down or remove what is making it angry.

When training your Petalia, its best it be relaxed and submissive or it may fight or become fearful of training. A Petalia is showing learning by licking at its lips, having a relaxed posture, looking at you, and wanting to be near you. The facial expressions often can give away what its feeling. Petalia are bad liars and cannot cover up their emotions under normal circumstances. If they are agitated they will let you know.

**Petalia Language**: The Petalia language is generally the same throughout the world with some minor variation and one pre-language spoken by the oldest of breeds in their original homelands. It is a serious of tone, pitch, and animalist sounds which make up the language. The original Petalia language is rarely found anymore as most of the Petalia which speak it like so remotely there is no need for a complex language. Other Petalia have been documented as using over ten thousand calls in specific syntaxes which researches claim is a Language. Petalia Language is documented but very few "words" are understood.

Petalia learn their language from their parents and have an "infant" accent on it. Once the vocal chords are developed this disappears. Sometimes a Petalia will try to communicate back to humans using its own language. This means Petalia may understand human language if exposed to it for long enough and have the cognitive ability to take in language and respond.

**Human Language**: It takes a tremendous amount of effort for Petalia to learn a human word. Un-use to using their tongues, forming words are difficult. The animalistic quality in their voice is heavy and the complex words of French, Chinese, Japanese, Russian, and Indian languages are the most difficult for them to learn. Some are trying to find a language that is better suited to teach Petalia, Hebrew is one of the top languages used as is Arabic. Research still needs to be done about their abilities in Human language. Some argue they can only learn words as a dog can learn to mimic a series of vocal sounds and that it has no meaning. Others say Petalia can speak if trained too. It has been proposed that Petalia may be refusing human language as part of a social bias. Few researches are even claiming that Petalia could never master speech and that they are reacted based on trained and rewarded responses. Many even claim the Petalia is simply not smart enough to speak. While arguments are all over the place, the Petalia does have an interesting language capability.

Physically speaking, They will probably never utter a human like word. Their calls and animal like "Language" seems to be the best of their ability. However, it has been proven that they are well adapted to understanding words. In addition, they seem to understand other animals better than humans. Sensitive to common body language, they seem to be able to blend into to livestock and domestic animals just fine. In the wild however, they would not bother getting chummy with prey or potential enemies.


	50. Petalia: Behavior

**Note-** I may expand on this chapter later. As always, suggestions in reviews are taken into consideration. If you're curious about a specific petalia behavior, ask. This is one of the Chapters that will get updated. I will Mark a (i), (ii), etc. as its updated. Recent updates will be towards the end of the chapter. Remember to request documentaries. Even if its already listed, lack of support can mean I will cut it for more popular ones to come out quicker. You've got a voice, use it!

_**Special Note**_- Read my profile for the RP oppertunity. It's still open and I've simplified it a bit. This role needs to be filled. If you're interested pm me.

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**Petalia Behavior**:

While not every factor of behavior can be discussed there are some key social elements and displays that will help you understand your pet better. In general most research points that Petalia are more animal like than human like based on their body language and life style. The behaviors are broken down in categories. Greetings, Play, Fighting, Social Order, Mate Behavior, Parental, Pup, Working and Death Rituals.

**Greetings:**

When two Petalia first meet there can be a lot of tension. Males meeting can get competitive or may feel threatened if they have a mate or pups to account for. Females may be stand offish. Males may be seeking a mate and come off strong. There are many things that can cause this tension. Some Petalia get excited to meet others and take well to socialization.

When meeting observe your pets spine. Is it angled high at the withers? Your pet is excited to see this new Petalia. Is the pet stiff? They are tense. Hackling of the fur is a sign of aggression and your pet should be removed if he is doing this. If your pet is coiled up, has his/her tail tucked, pulling away, or hiding your pet is afraid.

Normally, Petalia will meet each other by sniff over each other's bodies. They will also pay close attention to the scent of the groin glands. Do not stop your Petalia from doing this. It is vital they understand each other. The Petalia will then react, positively or negatively, to the scent. Some licking, nipping and vocalization may occur. Beware of any biting, growling, or puffing of the chest as this indications your pet is being aggressive.

Breeds that socialize well are the Italian breeds except the Southern, Austria, France, Finland, Canada, Ukraine and Spain. Breeds that require a lot of socialization in order to get along are the Russia, America, Netherland, Belarus and Poland. Breeds which tend to only greet then walk away and prefer the company of their owner are the Germany, Sweden, Switzerland, Japan, Greece, and Rome.

**Play**:

Petalia love to play. From puphood to elderly, play is an important part of social behavior. Pups spend most of their free time playing which helps develop their muscles and practice good social skills. Play can play rough at times, especially males, but rarely will they get hurt.

Good play involves tackles, wrestling, chasing one another, hunting down one another, and racing. Petalia are often noisy during play and may nip and pin. This is ok and rarely draws blood or bruise. Pups will play with siblings or pups of neighboring herds under the supervision of adults. Parents correct play that gets too rough. Males will play with each other as bonding and as stated before tend to be rougher. Females don't tend to play as much and prefer chasing games to physical contact.

Playful breeds include the France, Spain, Italian breeds, Finland, Canada, America, Russia, Ukraine, Sealand, China and Prussia. Breeds which are not known to be playful are the Sweden, Norway, England, Japan, and Belarus.

**Social Order**:

There is a strict pecking order in Petalia society when there is a herd formed. Ranking is usually done by those fit to lead or hold such a position in the herd mentally and physically. There is an Alpha of the group who is usually male. If the Male takes a mate the two become the Alphas and co-exist as equal partners. However much research has shown that the Alphas will split duties. Female Alpha looking out for pups, the herd, nests, dens, and storage. Male Alphas keeping everyone in line, providing food, materials, and making the decisions.

From alpha on, members of the family fall in order of how much responsibility they can handle. Pups are excluded from pecking order but as they grow up are considered bottom members until they prove otherwise. Females are usually held in a higher position than males because of their value in their society. Even females who are at the bottom will be well attended too.

Alpha's often eat first and have the pick of best bedding, den, and drink first at watering holes. The alpha's pups are considered in higher respect but that doesn't entitle them to extra care. All pups are priceless and the group will care for them regardless.

While herds have a typical social order, herds are not always formed. Germany, Austria, Poland, Switzerland, Sweden, Russia breeds will very rarely form a herd consisting of more than their mate and pups. A Petalia is considered a "herd" when more than 3 adult members that are unrelated come together as a unit. More commonly it is only a bonded pair and their offspring. There is no pecking order however it is observed the male is respected and heeded. The female's word generally is law as well but females spend more time raising pups.

**Fights**:

Fighting can occur for several reasons but its rarer than one may think. The most common is between males that are sparing for a mate. Most breeds end the spar after a few good blows. These fights don't normally end up life threatening. Some breeds however are more brutal in mate fights. Germany, Russia, Netherland and Belarus males are known to get very rough, drawing blood and leaving injury. The Russia is the only breed known to go into battle expecting to kill. This is known because they take on hunting motions.

Females occasionally will fight over social disputes. This fights are small and tend to not leave any marks. Females may also fight males, especially younger males, if they step out of line. Another common reason is if they pups are in danger. This is the most violent form of fighting a female will generally engage in. Germany and Ukraine females are notorious for fighting to the death for their pups.

Territory is the next biggest thing a Petalia will fight over. Pets will often engage in this type of fight and it's usually marked by a large amount of running and some scenting. These fights usually end fast with only minor injuries.

Social fighting can occur when a member of a herd challenges another. This could be to prove dominance or a disagreement. This fights occasionally get nasty. If an alpha is challenged it usually gets more physical than most other fights. If the alpha looses, the whole structure of the herd is altered.

**Eating**:

You should never touch or provoke your Petalia when eating. While most would not react to having a good belly rub while eating, some Petalia will immediately snap or bite. Food is gold in the Petalia world and they have strict behaviors. The animal that controls the food is always alpha. Pecking order is also feeding order and violations of this pattern are dealt with aggressively.

**Parenting**:

Parenting is different from breed to breed. Each has its own survival strategy. The parenting methods are considered part of the primitive "culture" of Petalia. This is because if a pup is taken at birth and raised by humans exclusively, it shows no influence of its parents methods of parenting or breeding. It may be nervous and fearful of its own pups. If a parent dies, the pup may not have learned all of what that parent did and may not exhibit their behavior.

Most Petalia will bond for life or at least an extended period of time to raise pups. The mothers have great influence because they spend the most time with the pups. Fathers are more important later and set example for what mates should do, hunting, caring, and other daily needs.

The Prussia doesn't stick around long, in fact males may impregnate and leave females who smell of other males. Until the smell of pregnancy is around, the males are flighty and romp around on a quest to spread their genes. Pups hit about mid to late puphood before the male leaves. As teenagers the pups usually leave the care of a mother, who is usually pregnant and nursing a litter at the least. Females will stick around their mother a little longer and up until they birth their own litter. This extra support helps the females survive.

The Russia has particularly harsh but successful techniques. A strong male will seek out the strongest female and they will continue to have litters until a larger male or female comes along. The Males generally only care for their prime female and her pups. Russia males are brutally territorial and defend their den violently. Even a Rabbit is a threat. Their pups often stay until teenhood and leave. Since the breed has large pups only a 1-3 may be born per litter. Sick, deformed, or runts of the litter are usually killed. The amount of energy it takes to raise ill and small pups takes from the healthy ones and in a place such as Russia, resources are scarce. It is believed that the males are primarily the ones who practice infanticide. Males have a unique psychological ability seen in humans under great stress which is the "Doubling" effect. Russia males have a split psyche, the survivalist side only comes out when needed and prevents the male from undergoing depression due to the severity of his actions.

The North Italy has unusual habits of parenting as well. Generally gentle, they tend to form herds where all pups are cared for equally. Parents keep tabs on their own but pups share milk supplies and even dens. Males generally hunt and females will seek out any sort of food they can. Massive eaters, their pups are never victims of intentional infanticide. They parent gently and set example. They keep their pups into teenhood where they can choose to leave or remain.

The Germany breed's strategy has already been discussed but besides being extremely successful though low in production, they have adapted exceptionally long periods of parenting. In fact, most pups won't leave the parents until they are adults and most of those adults will still often see their parents. The breed's center on family units and protection of their kin means they control a large amount of wild territory. The breed is firm with discipline.

The Ukraine often forms large herds of separate family units. Though they don't contribute much to each other, they form for protection and raising of pups. While some families may get close and share resources, they raise the pups in a communal nursing setting. That is, any pup that is hungry is fed. All mothers agree to nurse any hungry pup. This sharing of calories has lead to high pup survival and strong immune systems. Males generally agree to protect all females and teach their son's to do the same. Often times, female pups will meet their future mate in puphood. This communal living is the largest of it's kind. Family units paired up can grow into a herd of over one hundred individuals. This is most commonly seen in the Ukraine and Hungarian plains but not in Russia as often. This may be a "cultural" example of raising pups.

**Hunting**: Petalia hunting is unique compared to animals of other species. Their hunting behavior has come under scrutiny based on research done with the human's close relative, the chimp. Scientists are now wondering if Petalia hunting is instinctual or cultural. Petalia haven't been identified as having anything beyond a bare minimum culture. By culture, most mean that one way of doing things is passed down to the next generation but is not inherently done by other means.

An example came in apes who used multiple stick tools vs. rocks. Though both apes had access to both in the different parts of the world they lived in, one type of ape does not use stones as tools. The others don't fashion brushes or tools from sticks.

Petalia hunting may be a blend of both. They hunt by instinct and the drive of hunger. All animals seek out food sources. The Petalia's hunting strategy is closely related to that of big cats rather than wolves, even though the modifications to their DNA are more derived from wolf genetic markers. Petalia rarely hunt in groups except in the cases where large herds are formed. They prefer to stalk prey and entrap it before striking rather than running it into a trap or cornering it. However, across breeds this ranges.

In herds, gender plays no role in who hunts. Females have a slightly better kill rate of ¼ than males at 1/5 attempts. Breed differences occur in the rare and popular breeds.

The Prussia is an example of what may be cultural hunting. Prussia males will spook and run prey until its tired. After that it attacks it's weakened foe. The Prussia will pace itself and lag behind and around, making noise to keep the prey fleeing. In a small area of the Alps, Prussia breeds have been seen stalking and giving a fatal bite then following the animal until it's too weak to fight back.

Germany breeds are the rare example of group hunting if they are in a herd or larger family. Because the pups stick around so long they often have a large family and thus developted different hunting strategies. Some families tackle their prey all at once, while others stalk around it to cut off escape routes while the strongest takes it down. Many males however don't have a herd or will eventually leave their families. The Germany rarely chases prey but uses its size and weight.

The Russia also uses its size like the Germany. The Russia however is far more opportunistic. Often compared to a polar bear, the breed can be found digging through and crushing ice to get at young animals in dens. While most breeds will dig after things like rabbits, the Russia uses its weight to collapse a den before digging through it.

Most other breeds hunt with typical predator tragedies. Some breeds are avid fishers and prefer to take to the water. Most fish are caught from above. Others have the physical ability to dive into the water and catch fish with their teeth. The Japan is an example of a breed able to do this. The Cuba however cannot because its body is strong and thick. As a result, it fishes by grabbing them from above. The Greece also fishes from above as well.

**Mental or Emotional Dysfunctions**:

Rarely, Petalia have inborn behavioral dysfunctions. In some breeds this is a normal while in others it is not even reported. This oddities stem from mental or emotional causes. The most common type across all breeds stems from an emotional aspect.

Emotional problems from abuse usually lead to nervous vices or lashing out. Emotionally dysfunctional Petalia cannot be trusted as much as normal Petalia. They may bite, pace, scratch, kick and head butt others. Sometimes, Petalia can heal on their own or if introduced to a healthy herd setting where others of their own kind can aid them. Emotional Dysfunctions have a higher rate of healing than mental ones.

In the Wild, emotionally dysfunctional Petalia may be outcast. Unable to control themselves they may be rejected by the herd. Generally, pecking order keeps even severely challenged Petalia in line and functioning. Sometimes breeds are known to have emotional dysfunctions regarding death. The Russia tends to have a high case of this. It doesn't seem to sympathize with other's pain or what death is. This may be a coping mechanism because the breed is noted for its cheerful, playful, nature. They can be seen smiling as they play roughly with rabbits until they die, not understanding why it's no longer moving. Not connecting that just because you didn't intend to kill it, doesn't mean it won't die if handled roughly.

Some wild Petalia can suffer when there is a loss of family. The Germany breed is very sensitive to the death of mates and pups. Males and females suffer severe depression but may also voluntarily die. By self starvation, they can often be found dead in environments flourishing with food and water. Petalia do not generally die from Emotional causes if they have pups to care for. Ukraine Breed also suffers from severe emotional damage when pups and mates meet unfortunate fates.

Mental Dysfunctions are a widespread problem in inbred breeds of Petalia. Mental issues do not mean insanity but in Petalia anything which stems from a problem in the brain. Some are harmless and many owners aren't aware of them. The most common is hallucination. A majority of the England breed suffer this and it is noted by rapid eye movement, sudden tension, random biting or vocalization. While most go just fine and accept these hallucinations as if there, others may become aggressive. Some of the older lines of the Japan breed also suffer this but besides rapid eye movement and skittish behavior, they rarely lash out or become dangerous.

Other problems are more noticeable like ticks and twitches. The most famous breed for this is the North Italy which is seen giving a verbal cue often which has no actual meaning associated with it. Similar to how a person may excessively or uncontrollably say 'ums', 'ahs', 'ahcks', or 'ehs'. This is sometimes accompanied by a closing of the eyes. Make sure your Petalia doesn't have eye issues before dismissing it as a an uncontrollable tick. These things don't interfere with the animal's quality of life.

Another breed known for mental dysfunction is the America. Because of its wide genetic gene pool ranging from Russia to African to Mexico breeds the breed as a whole has less instances of genetic illness. Mental Dysfunctions however seem to have been inherited strongly. Based on the influences of its ancestors it may give verbal cues like the Italy or even twitch. Hallucination is fairly common. The chemistry of the breed's brain can be effected by conflicting norms of other breeds.

Narcolepsy in categorized with mental health because of its root cause in the brain. These Petalia need close monitoring. This isn't limited to one breed but in general seems to affect the southern European breeds and far western European breeds like the Spain. These animals fall asleep in the midst of consciousness. In the wild, these animals don't survive long. The Russia is the only breed without cases of adult Narcolepsy because the parents will often kill a pup that shows this illness. Other breeds band around the sick one, like the North Italy, but it is still unlikely to survive. In captivity these animals need softer environments in case they fall and an attentive owner. Some medications help the Petalia but it can be a costly option.


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